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A seductive hillside retreat with an old-fashioned interior. Creaky wooden stairs lead to a roof terrace, with dreamy, romantic views.

Since 1932 Dourabeis has charmed diners with its sublime fresh fish, simply grilled and dressed with lemon and olive oil.

In the 7th century BC, Draco instituted the first Code of Law: even trivial crimes incurred the death penalty, hence the term draconian.

This popular nightclub gets overcrowded at weekends as Athens’ young and beautiful flock to enjoy the underground/world music and decadent atmosphere.

In 534 BC, the ruler of Athens, Pisistratus, formalized the Dionysan festivals into fully fledged drama competitions, held annually. Thespis won the first competition.

The most important event on the Orthodox calendar, far outweighing Christmas. On the night of Easter Friday, participants follow effigies of Jesus on flower-covered biers in candlelit processions, concluding in midnight services and exuberant fireworks (and, in mountain villages, rounds of gunshots). Sunday is for roasting lamb with 20–30 close family members and eating eggs dyed red (symbolizing both the blood of Christ and rebirth).

Greece’s first vegetarian restaurant opened in 1982 and is still a haven for herbivores. The atmosphere is refreshingly bright and nonhippie.

No menu at this tiny gem, just raw ingredients to choose and have cooked to order. Edodi is noted for delicate flavours and unexpected sauces, creating delights like fig-stuffed pheasant and lobster with parmesan sauce. (see Edodi)

The food is superb, unfortunately the space is limited and reservations essential. (see Edodi)

Two cats wind around wooden benches in this old Athens house waiting for generous patrons to toss them scraps of the excellent pork roasted with peppercorns and olives.