Athens is simultaneously known as the Classical, marble-pillared cradle of Western civilization and as a modern urban sprawl of concrete and traffic. Between the extremes lies a kaleidoscopic city, where the influences of East and West entwine in the markets, cafés and tavernas, built upon ancient ruins and rubbing shoulders with gold-leafed Byzantine churches.
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A simple, traditional, delicious taverna. Be sure to try the spicy Arachova sausage and stuffed peppers.
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Choose from the scrumptious baklava and kataifi at this tiny but deservedly popular alcove of a shop.
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A tiny treasure trove of all that is sinful but irresistibly sweet, Karavan sells quite simply the best baklava and kataifi in town.
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Cumin-flavoured keftedes (meatballs) and tzatziki in a place that steps back in time.
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Built into the hillside of Profitis Ilias, which overlooks Mikrolimano, this picturesque residential quarter is filled with pastel-coloured Neo-Classical houses, built between 1834 and 1900, and a labyrinth of steep streets and stairways. There’s a village atmosphere here, making it a great area to explore on foot. The highest point is crowned by the church of Profitis Ilias and the Bowling Centre Café (see Bowling Centre Café), which offers spectacular views of Athens, while nearby the small open-air Veakeio Theatre is used for staging delightful summer performances.
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This tiny alcove manages to stock a fine selection of traditional wooden tavli (backgammon) boards. Prices from as low as €10.
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A dark and smoky rembetika den upstairs: allnight souvlaki joint under the same name can be found on the ground floor.
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Top-notch taramasalata and fresh grilled seafood (the squid is especially good) at this garden taverna by the sea.
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The site where Theseus defeated the Sinis, the giant who used whole pine trees to slingshot victims across the water. Today the seaside town makes a nice stop on the beautiful drive to Epidauros.
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This fascinating site around ancient Athens’ walls should not be missed. It contains evidence of all the activities that take place at a city’s edge: tombs (raised circular mounds for war heroes, pompous marble statues for great statesmen), temples, important roads, pottery workshops, and a brothel. It’s also a shady oasis in the congested city centre. (see Kerameikos)
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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