Athens is simultaneously known as the Classical, marble-pillared cradle of Western civilization and as a modern urban sprawl of concrete and traffic. Between the extremes lies a kaleidoscopic city, where the influences of East and West entwine in the markets, cafés and tavernas, built upon ancient ruins and rubbing shoulders with gold-leafed Byzantine churches.
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A green oasis in the middle of factories and hardware markets, this is the site of the oldest and largest burial ground in Attica. This is also the outer wall of the ancient city, and running through it is the Sacred Way. Outside the site, the road continues, still incongruously named Sacred Way despite its congested traffic and empty warehouses. (see Kerameikos)
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Classical Athens’ cemetery gives a fascinating cross-section of life, and death, at the city’s edge, with elaborate tombs, temples, sacred roads – and an ancient brothel. (see Kerameikos)
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This 11th-century monastery on the cypress-clad slopes of Mount Hymettos makes a wonderful day trip (best reached by car). The chapel, dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin, is built atop Classical ruins, its walls decorated with cloisonné (enamelled) masonry and late 17th-century paintings. The ram’s-head fountain is said to cure infertility. (see Kesariani, Mount Hymettos)
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Lovely monastery on the wooded slopes of Mount Hymettos, above Athens’ northern suburbs. (see Kesariani)
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This 12th-century monastery sits on fragrant, wooded slopes just outside Athens. Most of its surviving frescoes are from the 16th and 17th centuries, and its rushing spring waters are said to cure infertility. (see Kesariani)
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The original and best of the city’s now plentiful sushi restaurants. An impeccably presented, tempting selection.
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This grandiose hotel and former retreat of the rich and famous reopened in 2004 after a 14-year closure. The 104 rooms and suites, all with marble bathrooms, are individually furnished with select antiques.
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Similarly turned out sibling of the Jason Inn, so rooms are stylish as well as clean and comfortable. The bar and restaurant are cheerful and pleasant, thankfully, as the run-down neighbourhood doesn’t offer much in the way of sustenance.
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This two-storey Neo-Classical building with delightfully painted ceilings is located near the centre of old Nafplio. Comfortable rooms come in several sizes, and breakfast includes home-baked goodies.
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Serves innovative food in style. Try the smoked salmon with whisky. Plous Podilato is a sister restaurant in Piraeus (see Plous Podilato).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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