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In a grey, seedy part of Omonia stands this warm, old-world taverna. The floors are painted red, the wine barrels decorated with vibrant flowers.

This is a simple, classic taverna dish, whose name means “red-sauced”. Lamb, chicken or pork is cooked with tomatoes, wine and herbs in a clay pot, which keeps in all the moisture and pungent flavour. The tender, infused meat should fall off the bone at the mere touch of a fork.

New EU food laws have made this essential Easter dish technically illegal, but in back gardens and old-time tavernas Greeks continue to serve it year round. They take the intestines of lamb, marinate them in herbs, garlic and lemon juice, and roast the whole thing for hours over coals, until it drips with flavourful juices.

Kollias serves reasonably priced delicious fresh fish, and unusual Greek seafood dishes. It is best reached by taxi as it is not central.

This tasteful little shop sells a select choice of gifts, including highly individual, signed and numbered artworks by some of the country’s latest talents.

The humble origins of this natural-based, environmentally and animal-friendly cosmetics brand that is taking Europe and the United States by storm lie in this small homeopathic pharmacy. The full collection of haircare, suncare, face and body lotions is available here at very reasonable prices. Delight the senses with refreshing citrus body water spray, the sweetly spicy coriander shower gel or the orange blossom facial cleanser. Being a chemist, this shop is closed on Saturdays (as well as Monday and Wednesday afternoons, like many other shops).

The first monumental sculptures in Greek art: a kouros was a youth, a kore a maiden. The plural is koroi .

A large ceramic or bronze bowl for mixing wine and water, often beautifully decorated.