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Intellectuals and locals chew the fat in a garden overlooking the square in summer, or in the stone dining room in winter, at this beautiful vestige of the early 20th century.

Mostly barren and much less picturesque than the other Cyclades, Kythnos does have one thing going for it: healing thermal springs that are said to be the best in all the Aegean.

Bathers come year-round to take the warm, therapeutic waters of Lake Vouliagmeni, a large thermal spring that maintains a steady temperature of 22–25°C (70–77°F). The source of the clear, half-fresh, half-salt waters is still unknown, but devotees say there’s no doubt about their healing properties. It’s a great place to swim, especially on cold winter mornings, flanked by a high rock face on one side and trees on the other.

Jeweller Ilias Lalaounis showcases his gold creations.

Some of the world’s most glamorous gold creations are still to be found at Ilias Lalounis’ celebrated jewellery house.

Lambropoulos is one of the few department stores in this country of small shops and boutiques, with an impressive range of local and international goods.

Two floors of silver-and-holograph walls, up-to-the-minute Eurotechno music, and model-perfect boy clientele make this one of Athens’ hottest gay bars.

Friendly, helpful staff and equally appealing rooms, decorated in warm hues, with nice touches like goosedown duvets and marble bathrooms. The Polynesian Kona Kai restaurant is highly rated and a favourite of business diners.

Lena Katsanidou’s Kolonaki boutique and upstairs atelier sells highly desirable items including her signature line of bold, heavy-weight earrings fashioned in silver and bronze.