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Much-loved actress (1925– 94) who opposed the 1967–74 junta, became Minister of Culture and initiated the European City of Culture scheme.

This little gem of a grocery shop stocks cheeses from all over the country, olive oil, olives, wine, ouzo, herbs and spices, teas, and some organic goods.

Ever popular with executive travellers for its full range of business facilities, 24-hour restaurant and well-appointed rooms – plus extras like free sessions with a personal trainer in the gym. There’s a free hourly shuttle to the city centre.

Located near the fish market, you can always be sure there will be good seafood here, accompanied by ouzo.

Mikis Theodorakis, Greece’s greatest modern composer, won international acclaim and started a cultural revolution in his own country with works like Epiphania and the instantly recognizable Zorba the Greek score. During the junta, Theodorakis’s songs were banned and he was jailed, making him an instant symbol of the resistance.

The name means Asia Minor, and this Turkish-and-Arab themed lounge sports aptly low couches, cushions, red lighting, coloured tiles and a huge picture of the city Greeks still call Constantinople.

Best known for its excellent fish restaurants with open-air waterside terraces, this delightful small, circular bay is built on a human scale. The ancients, who kept their ships here, believed it was protected by the goddess Munichia Artemis, and initially named it after her. The Turkish navy used it too, which is why it is still sometimes known as Tourkolimano (Turkish harbour). Today it is filled with the small wooden boats of local fishermen, who supply the surrounding restaurants from their daily catch.

In April 1967, a coup d’etat led by Georgios Papadopoulos signalled the beginning of a seven-year military junta. Student protests on 17 November 1973 were violently put down by the military, who stormed Athens’ Polytechnic and killed many. But the regime fell in 1974, following a failed attempt to take Cyprus.

The Minoans of Crete were sensual, social, nature-loving and matriarchal. Ceramics are painted with flowing lines based on natural motifs. Fluid-lined frescoes depict priestesses and animals. Most exciting are the faïence sculptures of voluptuous goddesses wielding snakes, and the fantastically light, delicate gold jewellery.

Enormous, lavishly appointed Athens Cathedral is one of the city’s best-known landmarks. The archbishop of Greece (often cited as the nation’s most influential person) gives addresses here, and it is regularly packed when Athens’ high society come for weddings and baptisms. Of far greater artistic importance, though, is tiny Panagia Gorgoepikoos (“little Metropoli”), next door. The 12th-century church is built of Roman and Byzantine marble relics, depicting 90 scenes of ancient feasts. (see Mitropoli)