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Athens’ massive cathedral of 1862 was the first major church built after Greece’s independence. It became the seat of the archbishop and hence of modern Greek orthodoxy. Though its colourful frescoes and pricey ecclesiastical objects are certainly impressive, its architecture is less so. Mitropoli’s importance is almost entirely spriritual, as the central point for the Greek Orthodox Church. (see Mitropoli)

Greece joined the EEC (now the EU) in 1981, and in the same year Andreas Papandreou became the country’s first Socialist prime minister. In 1985, Athens was the first European City of Culture. Hosting the highly successful 2004 Olympics means that the city now has improved transport, sports and cultural facilities.

Light, creative Mediterranean cuisine in a lovely courtyard. The focus is on seafood, but don’t miss the delicious pears poached in wine for dessert.

This small, diverse bar and restaurant takes over the neighbouring pavements at weekends as patrons spill out, drinks in hand.

This was once the greatest monastery of the area, this is the church from which the Monistiraki neighbourhood takes its name. “Little monastery” was so named after the destruction of its many surrounding buildings during 19th-century archaeological digs. The church is due to reopen in early 2006. (see Plateia Monastiraki)

Light and modern taverna fare, often with live rembetika at weekends.

Although developed in parts, Mount Parnassos offers fine skiing, splendid views and, in spring, wonderful trekking over wildflower-covered heights. The highest peak and most popular trek is the Liakoura. The truly ambitious can trek via Delphi by starting from Arachova very early in the morning, although this requires a guide. The best starting point for most hikes is the Greek Alpine Club refuge at 1,900 m (6,230 ft), 20 km (12 miles) north of Arachova.

On the outskirts of Athens, this beautiful mountain has many paths through its dense fir forests, offering walking and trekking for all levels. In spring, its meadows are full of wildflowers. There are two refuges for climbers and a large casino-cum-alpine hotel, reached by cable car from the suburb of Thrakomakedones, and a good starting point for walks. (see Hiking on Mount Parnitha)

Up by the National Observatory in the most northerly suburb of Athens, you get a great view of the city by day, but an even better one at night.

There are endless variations on this famous country casserole. But the basic ingredients – aubergine (eggplant) and minced lamb layered with potatoes and tomatoes, enriched with wine, spiced with cinammon and topped with bechamel – stay the same, as does its warming, earthy flavour.