Athens is simultaneously known as the Classical, marble-pillared cradle of Western civilization and as a modern urban sprawl of concrete and traffic. Between the extremes lies a kaleidoscopic city, where the influences of East and West entwine in the markets, cafés and tavernas, built upon ancient ruins and rubbing shoulders with gold-leafed Byzantine churches.
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Overlooking the Argolikos Gulf, this is a good base for exploring both the Peloponnese and the island of Spetses. Recently renovated, it now has spacious rooms with large beds and offers a full range of resort services and activities, including childcare.
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From Freatida, a 3-km (2-mile) long lantern-lined coastal promenade, overlooked by modern apartment blocks and a string of informal fish restaurants, offers wonderful views across the open sea to the islands of Aegina and Salamina. The route, named after the 5th-century BC general and statesman Themistokles, who founded Piraeus, follows the course of the ancient seaward walls. Down below, a series of rocky bays offers the chance of bathing. The prettiest spot of all is Aphrodite’s Bay.
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Beautiful people fill the cool, silver-and-white interior of the Athens version of this restaurant/ club, which originated on Mykonos.
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Price and location (on Plateia Syntagma, directly across from the National Gardens) combine admirably. The rooms are comfortable, functional and, despite facing a noisy major road, surprisingly quiet.
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Boutique ,family-run, elegant hotel on Bed & Breakfast in the area of Piskopiano, Hersonissos/Crete, Greece. Lovely area, great for couples and families, lots of choices for unforgetttable time! Read the comments on Trip Advisor!
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Concept cake shopping. This exceptionally chic patissier sells delectable pastel-hued macaroons, chocolates and desserts.
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One of Athens’ oldest and best-loved live music clubs, showcasing rock and alternative bands. Rave parties after 1am.
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Rock, reggae and alternative performances in the heart of Exarcheia (see An).
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Mid-Afternoon
Start at Plateia Syntagma a few minutes before the hour to see the changing of the guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Then head up Vasilissis Sofias to the Museum of Cycladic Art to ponder the mysterious prehistoric marble sculptures. Be sure to check out whatever temporary exhibition is on at the adjoining Stathatos Mansion – they are usually small but world-class shows.
Then it’s on to Plateia Kolonaki for a frappé and a pastry at one of the roadside cafés and some stellar people-watching. The parade of wealthy wives, pretty playboys and Greek starlets provides recompense for overpriced drinks – just sip slowly!
Late Afternoon
Afterwards, fan out from the square for some serious shopping or browsing of the shop windows and eyeing patrons at Folli Follie, Prasini and Elena Votsi , as well as familiar international stables such as Gucci, Armani and Versace.
Towards the end of the day, go to the funicular station at the foot of Lykavittos Hill. Though close to Plateia Kolonaki, the walk is quite steep, so if you’re feet are tired you can take the 060 minibus from the square or a two-minute taxi ride. From the hilltop at dusk, watch the sky turn violet over Athens, while enjoying a drink at the café, or a truly special meal at Orizontes restaurant (see Orizontes).
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Clinging to the side of the Acropolis is Athens’ loveliest and quirkiest hidden neighbourhood. It was built in the 19th century by tradesmen from the Cycladic island of Anafi, brought to Athens after the War of Independence to build King Otto’s palace. They missed home so much that they decided to re-create a pocket of it here, all island-style, dome-topped blue-and-white houses, covered with banks of bougainvillea, in a maze of tiny passageways. Many descendents of the original Anafi workers still live here.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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