DK Travel : Athens

Athens is simultaneously known as the Classical, marble-pillared cradle of Western civilization and as a modern urban sprawl of concrete and traffic. Between the extremes lies a kaleidoscopic city, where the influences of East and West entwine in the markets, cafés and tavernas, built upon ancient ruins and rubbing shoulders with gold-leafed Byzantine churches.

Overnight in Nafplio

Daytime

Visit Nafplio on a summer weekend, buying tickets for a performance at ancient Epidauros before setting off.

Take a morning bus from Athens’ Terminal A, having also booked a hotel in advance. The nicest place to stay is Nafplia Palace; Pension Acronafplia is more affordable but still good.

Spend the day exploring Nafplio’s Old City. Buy some drinks and a snack, and take them up to the Venetian fortress, which affords glorious views of Nafplio and the Gulf of Argos. If you’re feeling fit, climb the 999 steps to the top; otherwise, take a taxi.

Below the fortress, cool off at the small public beach. For more privacy, head down the walkway and go diving from the rocks.

Nighttime

Satiate your hunger at Kanaris (see Kanaris (Karamanlis)),returning to the bus station before 7:30pm, when buses depart for Epidauros. Even if the performance is in Greek, the powerful acting and magical setting will captivate. Programmes summarize the plot in English. Take the bus back to Nafplio and get a good night’s sleep.

The folowing morning, check out, but leave your luggage at the hotel. Take the first bus to Mycenae (whose tragic inhabitants may well have been the subject of the previous night’s play). Marvel at this legendary prehistoric city for a few hours, then go back to Nafplio and hop on a bus back to Athens.
Palaiopoleio Alexandros

You never know what you might unearth among the books, ornaments and moth-eaten clothing piled up in this potential treasure trove.
Panagia Gorgoepikoos

Dwarfed by the bulk of Mitropoli, tiny Panagia Gorgoepikoos (Mikri Mitropoli, “little Mitropoli”) actually far outshadows its vast neighbour in historic and artistic importance. It was built in the 12th century, on the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to goddess Eileithyia. Its walls are built entirely of Roman and Byzantine marble relics, sculpted with reliefs depicting the ancient calendar of feasts. (see Mitropoli)
Panagia Grigoroussa

If you’ve lost something or are looking for someone, this is the place to go. Every Saturday, this famous church holds services blessing tasty fanouropita cakes. Once eaten, they are supposed to help you find what you’re looking for.
Pantelis Mountis

In Pantelis Mountis’s hole-in-the-wall, you can purchase beautiful hand-painted icons and metal tamata to ward off specific ailments.
Pap Smear

Since 1943, cervical cancer has been detected using the Pap smear test, a gynaecological procedure named after its inventor, the Athens-educated Greek-American doctor, George Papanicolaou (1883–1962).
Paradissos

An unpretentious taverna on the road to the northernmost tip of Evia. Enjoy the verdant setting, tender lamb and freshly dug potatoes.
Parafono

A great little jazz and blues cabaret that for 20 years has attracted some of the best names in the business to its small stage, draped with plush red curtains.
Pasalimani

This natural harbour at Piraeus is full of local fishing boats and yachts. Stroll around the marina, ending up on the east side, in front of the Nautical Museum, or come after dark when the many waterside cafés come to life. (see Pasalimani)
Pasalimani

This large circular bay, with a bottleneck channel opening out to the sea, is surrounded by imposing eight-storey modern apartment blocks. Inaugurated as Athens’ main naval base in the 5th century BC, the ancient harbour of Zea could accommodate 196 triremes (see Athenian Trireme)). Today, up to 400 of the most impressive motor yachts in Greece moor here. It takes about 20 minutes to walk the perimeter of the bay, along a tree-lined promenade overlooked by open-air cafés.

Pasalimani

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €30
- €30-€40
- €40-€50
- €50-€60
- €over €60