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From the red-carpeted entrance to the lovely marble roof garden (with a gorgeous view), fine surroundings match exquisite Franco-Mediterranean cuisine. (see Pil Poule)

A romantic restaurant (see Pil Poule) that’s perfect for a view of the Acropolis by moonlight.

Centred on an open-air swimming pool, this modern barrestaurant is stylish but relaxed.

Pittes came to Greece from Turkey and the Middle East. The key to a perfect pita (which means “pie”) is the famous filo crust: dozens of layers of paper-thin, translucent dough, brushed with butter or olive oil and baked to light, flaky perfection. Pita fillings range from sweet (the honey, walnut and rosewater baklava) to savoury – spinach and feta or hortopita , made from wild greens.

Greener and lower-key than Plateia Kolonaki, and home to one of Athens’ nicest outdoor cinemas.

It may seem a little worn around the edges, but this is the place to be for all your liberal intellectual café-sitting needs. The roads leading up to it are covered with graffiti decrying the latest actions of Western imperialist governments, and blanketed with leaflets advertising the latest demonstration of the week. De rigueur frappé-sipping attire is unruly hair, black turtlenecks and messenger bags. Of course, there is also a jaded awareness of Exarcheia’s reputation – as seen at the likes of the cutesy creperie called “Anarchy”. At night it’s an atmospheric place to be as the rembetika music starts up.

At some point everyone passes through this green, shady plateia, lined with cafés both old-world and trendy. Try To Tristato for Victorian ambience and heavenly teas and cakes, or Kydatheneon for a view of the scene. Catch a rooftop movie and Acropolis view at Cine Paris. Relax on benches in the almost-hidden stone-paved centre. Neo-Classical buildings peer over tree-tops at the whole scene.

This square has long played a role in Athens’ political history. Its name comes from the ancient Greek word for “crying”, which is applied here because of the tradition of politicians commiserating at this square if they have suffered election losses. It is also a site of rallies, demonstrations and concerts.