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At the close of WWII, with its political future uncertain, Greece fell into civil war. The US began pouring economic and military aid into the country, but on the proviso that the Communist Left would not gain power. In the 1950s and ’60s, Athens saw rapid industrialization, mass migration from rural areas and the growth of sprawling suburbs.

This is a full-service hotel that rents almost exclusively by the month. Comfortable rooms have most amenities, but no long-stay extras like kitchenettes or living areas.

The former palace of King Constantine was designed by Ernst Ziller (see Syntagma and Kolonaki). Next door, Maximou is the Prime Minister’s official residence – though present incumbent Costas Simitis prefers his Kolonaki apartment.

This established, pretty taverna has tables on the whitewashed steps leading to the Acropolis. Try the soupes (cuttlefish).

One of the few unspoiled garden tavernas in Plaka.

“The square of the hypotenuse of a right-angled triangle is equal to the sum of the squares of the other two sides.” This theorem, discovered by the philosopher and mathematician Pythagoras (582–500 BC) was a major scientific breakthrough, which led to extraordinary advances in mathematics, geometry and astronomy.

If you go to the islands of Andros or Evia, you’ll spend time in Rafina, Attica’s second-largest port after Piraeus. It’s smaller and cleaner than its chaotic big brother, but still bustling, filled with fish joints and hawkers. If you have a few hours to kill, take the small bus from the port to the decent beach, which also has a bar. If you’re brave enough, climb up on rocks abutting the beach and join the local children in adrenaline-rush cliff-diving.

The ruins of these temples to Nemesis (goddess of divine retribution) and Thetis (Achilles’ mother and goddess of law) are among Greece’s most unspoiled sites, in a romantically isolated and overgrown grotto with an alluring sea view. Nearby are some beautiful secluded beaches.