Athens is simultaneously known as the Classical, marble-pillared cradle of Western civilization and as a modern urban sprawl of concrete and traffic. Between the extremes lies a kaleidoscopic city, where the influences of East and West entwine in the markets, cafés and tavernas, built upon ancient ruins and rubbing shoulders with gold-leafed Byzantine churches.
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Built in the 4th century BC, this shrine was both an oracle and health resort. It honoured Amphiaraos, an Argonaut prophet who was tricked into fighting against Thebes, even though he foresaw that he would be killed. In the retreat, he was swallowed by the earth, and reincarnated as a demi-god, returning at this site. In spring, this gladed site is blanketed with flowers.
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This temple to Artemis, goddess of the hunt and childbirth, was once the most sacred in Attica. Its highlight was the bear festival, where young girls dressed as cubs performed the “bear dance” in honour of the goddess’s favourite animal. When King Agamemnon sacrificed his daughter Iphigenia to Artemis, the goddess saved her and brought her here, where she became a high priestess. Her tomb is the oldest cult shrine on the site. Today the well-preserved site remains green and tranquil. Its museum displays cult finds.
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The sanctuary to warrior-goddess Athena was believed to protect the Sanctuary of Apollo from invaders. Though many of the buildings have been destroyed, those that survive are among the finest examples of ancient Greek architecture.
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This rock circle surrounding an opening in the earth celebrated the earliest deity associated with the Delphic Oracle: the matriarchal earth goddess. The tradition of the Oracle and priestesses continued, but the ruling deity later become Apollo.
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Greece’s most common white wine is great with seafood and salads; it’s most often found in tavernas.
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Many consider Schinias the most beautiful beach area in Attica, its white-sand coast hugged by dark pine forests. However, the area is undergoing huge changes for the 2004 Olympics, which include building an artificial lake, and possibly archaeological and environmental parks. This means many tavernas are springing up on the once-pristine shore. But with a car it’s still possible to find many lovely spots to swim along the coast here, especially mid-week.
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Though somewhat touristy these days, this ouzeri still radiates character. Pick from the daily offerings on a tray.
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Drink and eat the chic Greek way at this atmospheric fish taverna and bar where designer-clad 30-somethings dance on the tables to bouzouki-with-a-beat hits.
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Orange, pink and limegreen predominate in this funky 52-room hotel designed by Karim Rashid. There’s a heated outdoor pool and a fitness and beauty centre. An everchanging selection of contemporary art is displayed in the lobby.
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This temple-like marble structure, built by envoys from Sifnos, was the richest and most beautiful of several similar treasuries, all constructed as offerings to the Oracle. Its statues are now displayed in the museum.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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