Athens is simultaneously known as the Classical, marble-pillared cradle of Western civilization and as a modern urban sprawl of concrete and traffic. Between the extremes lies a kaleidoscopic city, where the influences of East and West entwine in the markets, cafés and tavernas, built upon ancient ruins and rubbing shoulders with gold-leafed Byzantine churches.
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This smiling figure opened his shop of lasting, handmade leather sandals in 1954, has expanded the original few styles, and has become a tourist attraction in his own right.
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This rich, tender wild rabbit stew comes from the mountains of northern Greece, where it still warms villagers every winter. The rabbit is spiced with cumin, cloves and cinnamon, but its most wonderful characteristic is an unusual sweetness, achieved by the addition of lots of small onions, cooked until caramelized.
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Athens’ premiere rembetatiko, open day and night. Old-timers with cigars shower musicians with flowers, and, when the mood strikes, dance to gritty songs of heartbreak. Reserve on Friday and Saturday.
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Athens’ favourite rembetatiko (see Stoa Athanaton).
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In the midst of the bustling commercial heart of Athens, this tranquil, recently renovated arcade gathers together a wealth of book-shops, binders and antiquarian outlets.
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In the shadow of Lykavittos, this green hill (see Strefi Hill) is perfect if you desire a shorter climb but comparable views.
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It’s not the prettiest – or cleanest – hill in Athens, but it does give a great view over the whole of the gritty, soulful neighbour-hoods of Exarcheia and Omonia.
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The rooftop view is fantastic, the food a cut above typical taverna fare, and the crowd often filled with theatre types from the nearby Herodes Atticus.
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Traditional favourites and tasty updates in a garden rooftop setting with stunning Acropolis view. (see Strofi)
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This spotless, cheerful, recently renovated hostel is located in a pretty quarter of Plaka, an easy walk from most sights and downtown. Private rooms and dorms have wooden floors, big windows and private phones with internet access. Bathrooms are shared, but each bedroom has its own sink and mirror.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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