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There are endless variations on this famous country casserole. But the basic ingredients – aubergine (eggplant) and minced lamb layered with potatoes and tomatoes, enriched with wine, spiced with cinammon and topped with bechamel – stay the same, as does its warming, earthy flavour.

Over 6,000 items of clothing, jewellery and adornments showing the variety of Greek dress through the ages.

Greece’s first parliament building, this is now a museum specializing in the War of Independence.

One of the important Neo-Classical trio of downtown buildings (see Athens University and Academy of Arts). Venture in to admire the library’s gorgeous reading room.

The acoustics aren’t great and the Megaron Moussikis draws far more international stars, but the loyal generations who come in furs and lacquered hairdos will always feel at home here.

This collection of coinage is housed in the mansion of Heinrich Schliemann, discoverer of the Mycenae treasure.

Come to the colourful Saturday street market here for a real feeling of the vibrant community of Exarcheia.

Canoeing and rowing competitions took place in a 2,200-m (7,300-ft) artificial lake, with seating for 14,000 spectators. Now there are plans to make the area an environmental zone, with an adjoining archaeological park, displaying Stone-Age finds uncovered during construction and finds from the nearby site of the Battle of Marathon (see Marathonas).

The sailing centre was the first Olympic venue to host a test event – an international regatta in 2002. Sailing events were among the most exciting competitions of the whole games, partly because of the meltemi winds, which gust reliably along the coast every August. There are plans to convert the site into a 1,170-berth marina.