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The Greek Orthodox Carnival begins 58 days before Easter. Festivities, especially glamorous masquerade parties, last for days. In Athens, the colourful celebrations centre on Plaka, where the streets are packed with celebrants and masked musicians.

Athletes from around the world retrace the course of Pheidippidis, antiquity’s most celebrated runner. In 490 BC, the Greeks defeated the Persians at Marathon in a historic battle for democracy (see Marathonas). Pheidippidis ran the 42 km (26 miles) to Athens, announced the outcome (“Victory!”), then died of exhaustion. Today’s runners have the advantage of water stops and cheering crowds en route from Marathonas to the Kallimarmaro Stadium (see Kallimarmaro Stadium) to ease the arduous feat.

Greeks celebrate the first day of Lent by going to the country and flying kites; in Athens, the sky above Filopappos Hill is usually filled with them.

The most important event on the Orthodox calendar, far outweighing Christmas. On the night of Easter Friday, participants follow effigies of Jesus on flower-covered biers in candlelit processions, concluding in midnight services and exuberant fireworks (and, in mountain villages, rounds of gunshots). Sunday is for roasting lamb with 20–30 close family members and eating eggs dyed red (symbolizing both the blood of Christ and rebirth).

The “Blessing of the Waters”, when ports, boats and beaches are blessed, and young men dive for crosses cast into the water by priests; it’s a year’s good luck for the successful divers.

Absolutely everything closes for the Assumption of the Virgin, which is second only to Easter in the Orthodox calendar. The full cross-section of Greek womanhood packs churches, as every “Maria” turns out to honour her namesake.

Ancient Greeks performed their timeless tragedies in the spectacular theatres of Herodes Atticus and Epidauros. Now, every summer, the world’s greatest singers, dancers and actors perform under moonlight in these world-renowned venues. Recent singers include Luciano Pavarotti and the Harlem Gospel Choir, while Gerard Depardieu and Isabella Rossellini have acted in performances of classical works at Epidauros.

Full-on military parades with tanks, guns and battalions celebrate the date in 1821 when, after nearly 400 years of occupation, the Greek revolution successfully rose up against the Ottoman Empire.

This three-day festival is Greece’s hottest music ticket of the year. The line-up includes huge Greek and international pop, rock and alternative acts.