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The gaze of this snake-headed gorgon turned men to stone. Perseus defeated her only with the help of Athena’s gleaming shield, in which he could safely see his foe.

Much-loved actress (1925– 94) who opposed the 1967–74 junta, became Minister of Culture and initiated the European City of Culture scheme.

In April 1967, a coup d’etat led by Georgios Papadopoulos signalled the beginning of a seven-year military junta. Student protests on 17 November 1973 were violently put down by the military, who stormed Athens’ Polytechnic and killed many. But the regime fell in 1974, following a failed attempt to take Cyprus.

The Minoans of Crete were sensual, social, nature-loving and matriarchal. Ceramics are painted with flowing lines based on natural motifs. Fluid-lined frescoes depict priestesses and animals. Most exciting are the faïence sculptures of voluptuous goddesses wielding snakes, and the fantastically light, delicate gold jewellery.

Athens’ massive cathedral of 1862 was the first major church built after Greece’s independence. It became the seat of the archbishop and hence of modern Greek orthodoxy. Though its colourful frescoes and pricey ecclesiastical objects are certainly impressive, its architecture is less so. Mitropoli’s importance is almost entirely spriritual, as the central point for the Greek Orthodox Church. (see Mitropoli)

Greece joined the EEC (now the EU) in 1981, and in the same year Andreas Papandreou became the country’s first Socialist prime minister. In 1985, Athens was the first European City of Culture. Hosting the highly successful 2004 Olympics means that the city now has improved transport, sports and cultural facilities.

This was once the greatest monastery of the area, this is the church from which the Monistiraki neighbourhood takes its name. “Little monastery” was so named after the destruction of its many surrounding buildings during 19th-century archaeological digs. The church is due to reopen in early 2006. (see Plateia Monastiraki)

The fantastic museum houses the greatest offerings brought to the Oracle from around the world.

Legend and history combine alluringly at Mycenae. Homer wrote of Agamemnon, Greece’s most powerful king during the Trojan War, commanding the citadel of “well-built Mycenae, rich in gold.” And history confirms that indeed there was a Trojan War and a powerful civilization based in Mycenae. The evidence came together when Heinrich Schliemann discovered the palace at Mycenae in 1874, much of which accords with Homer’s descriptions, including the wealth of gold.

The art of this martial, mainland culture was somewhat influenced by the Minoans. But fundamentally, they were different, focused on war, order and acquisition, especially of gold. Their palaces housed hoards of embossed-gold swords, daggers, and cups, gold death-masks and pots painted with warrior images.