traveldk.com

Morning

Start at Greece’s greatest treasure storehouse: the National Archaeological Museum. Spend around 90 minutes, making sure to see the Mycenean Treasure, Thira Frescoes and Classical statuary.

When leaving the museum, turn left on Patission, noting the neighbouring Polytechnic, scene of 1973’s historic protests. Outside the building, a marble figure lies on the ground, memorializing the fallen students.

Turn left on Stournari, and head for Plateia Exarcheia for a frappé and to watch the punks, anarchists and models go by. In summer, head to Yiantes for an alfresco lunch.

Afternoon

Venture downhill on Themistokleous, where most of Greece’s independent filmmakers have their offices. Go through Plateia Omonia, just to see Athens’ most chaotic spot, but get out as quickly as possible, on Athinas.

You’ll pass Athens City Hall (see Athens City Hall) on your right before turning left on Sophocleous. Go down this street to see the National Bank of Greece, built on stilts over part of the Themistoklean Wall.

Double back to get to the city’s real heart – Central Food Market . Lose yourself in the sights, sounds and smells of the stalls. If it’s not summer, finish up at Stoa Athanaton , the city’s best rembetatiko, for fantastic music and a delicious traditional meal.

Morning/Afternoon

From Athens, take the metro to Piraeus, then walk to the Archaeological Museum (see Archaeological Museum of Piraeus) and check out some of the ancient local finds.

Continue to Pasalimani and stop for a coffee at Café Freddo overlooking the water. Take the time for a stroll around the harbour to admire the top-notch boats.

For a relaxed, indulgent lunch call at Achinos , offering fantastic sea views; otherwise walk the seafront promenade of Akti Themistokleous for a reasonably priced informal feast of fresh fish at Margaro (see Margaro).

Evening

Take the metro to Neo Faliro, then negotiate a busy main road past the Peace and Friendship Stadium, one of Piraeus’s beachside venues that was used for the 2004 Olympic Games.

Continue south from the stadium to arrive at the pretty fishing harbour of Mikrolimano – less glitzy and more picturesque than the more central bays.

Here you’ll find a string of waterside seafood restaurants, the best-known of which is Jimmy and the Fish .

After dinner, either escape for a romantic nightcap on the pleasant Don Kihotis roof terrace (see Don Kihotis), or join the swelling crowds at Neon ), one of the café-bars with brash music and open-air seating on Akti Dilaveri.

Day One

Set out from Athens, breaking up the three-hour drive to Delphi with stops at the scenic monasteries of Dafni and Osios Loukas.

Close to Delphi, you might want to stay either at the seaside town of Galaxidi, if it’s summer, or in the snowy mountain village of Arachova in winter. If the former, check into the charming Ganimede hotel and spend the late afternoon at the beach; if the latter, consider staying in a family chateau at the fabulous Elatos Resort (see Elatos Resort, Arachova). Here, you can take the afternoon to ski at the Parnassos Ski Centre, or to explore the many mountain trails.

Day Two

The next day, head to the ancient site of Delphi bright and early. You’ll want to spend a lot of time wandering around the Temple of Apollo, wondering about the strange rituals of the ancient priestesses who communed with the Oracle. Be sure not to miss the museum or the nearby Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia (see Sights in Delphi).

If you are in a hurry to return to Athens, grab a quick snack at Taverna Vakhos in Delphi before leaving. If not, you’ll find more sophisticated fare at Galaxidi and Arachova – try the mussels at Barko tis Maritsas in Galaxidi, or the sausages and grilled formaella cheese at Arachova’s Karaouli .

Early Morning

Hike up to the Acropolis first thing to beat the heat and the worst of the crowds. Then spend an hour or so admiring the temples.

Come down from the Acropolis and turn left onto the Dionisiou Areopagitiou Walkway . Your Acropolis ticket gives you free entry into the Theatre of Dionysus, where many of the great Classical dramas were first staged.

Head back out to the walkway and turn right on Makrigianni to visit the New Acropolis Museum . Next, head to Plateia Lysikratous, named after the unusual monument to the winner of a 335 BC choral competition.

Stop for a frappé in one of the leafy cafés overlooking Lysikratous – O Diogenous has the best view.

Late Morning

From the square, head up towards the charming 19th-century quarter of Anafiotika to explore its twisting alleys.

Leave by Prytaneiou, stopping in the quiet garden of the Byzantine Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and lighting a candle from its famed extra-holy flame.

From Prytaneiou, turn right on Mnisikleous and left on Kyrristou for a choice of either the tiny but delightful Museum of Greek Musical Instruments or the Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds . Finally, head back a block to O Platanos , for a hefty Greek lunch under a huge plane tree.

Morning

Start early with a drive out of Athens to Marathonas. Survey the plain where the Greeks won history’s greatest military victory, and pay homage at the warrior’s tomb. Then head to the romantic ruins of Ramnous, ideally concentrating more on the scenery than the site’s original purpose: praying for revenge.

Drive south down the coast, stopping in Loutsa for a grilled fish lunch at Xypolitos (see Xypolitos, nr Vavrona).

Afternoon

After lunch, continue south to the well-preserved Sanctuary of Artemis at Vavrona, dedicated to the huntress goddess. From there it’s a little over an hour’s drive to one of Greece’s most splendid sights: the Temple of Poseidon at Sounio. If there’s still plenty of daylight, first head to one of the two nearby beaches. The one on the left of the temple requires an athletic scramble down but offers scenic seclusion; the hotel beach on the right is easily accessible but covered with sun loungers. An hour or two before sunset, wander up to the temple, and watch as twilight deepens the Aegean to purple and the marble columns turn to pink and gold.

Returning to the coastal drive to Athens, consider two dinner options. The nearby taverna Syrtaki or, closer to the city, the elegant seaside club Island, where you can end your day of beautiful scenery with a vista of beautiful people (see Syrtaki, nr Sounio; Island,Varkiza).

Mid-Afternoon

Start at Plateia Syntagma a few minutes before the hour to see the changing of the guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Then head up Vasilissis Sofias to the Museum of Cycladic Art to ponder the mysterious prehistoric marble sculptures. Be sure to check out whatever temporary exhibition is on at the adjoining Stathatos Mansion – they are usually small but world-class shows.

Then it’s on to Plateia Kolonaki for a frappé and a pastry at one of the roadside cafés and some stellar people-watching. The parade of wealthy wives, pretty playboys and Greek starlets provides recompense for overpriced drinks – just sip slowly!

Late Afternoon

Afterwards, fan out from the square for some serious shopping or browsing of the shop windows and eyeing patrons at Folli Follie, Prasini and Elena Votsi , as well as familiar international stables such as Gucci, Armani and Versace.

Towards the end of the day, go to the funicular station at the foot of Lykavittos Hill. Though close to Plateia Kolonaki, the walk is quite steep, so if you’re feet are tired you can take the 060 minibus from the square or a two-minute taxi ride. From the hilltop at dusk, watch the sky turn violet over Athens, while enjoying a drink at the café, or a truly special meal at Orizontes restaurant (see Orizontes).

Daytime

Visit Nafplio on a summer weekend, buying tickets for a performance at ancient Epidauros before setting off.

Take a morning bus from Athens’ Terminal A, having also booked a hotel in advance. The nicest place to stay is Nafplia Palace; Pension Acronafplia is more affordable but still good.

Spend the day exploring Nafplio’s Old City. Buy some drinks and a snack, and take them up to the Venetian fortress, which affords glorious views of Nafplio and the Gulf of Argos. If you’re feeling fit, climb the 999 steps to the top; otherwise, take a taxi.

Below the fortress, cool off at the small public beach. For more privacy, head down the walkway and go diving from the rocks.

Nighttime

Satiate your hunger at Kanaris (see Kanaris (Karamanlis)),returning to the bus station before 7:30pm, when buses depart for Epidauros. Even if the performance is in Greek, the powerful acting and magical setting will captivate. Programmes summarize the plot in English. Take the bus back to Nafplio and get a good night’s sleep.

The folowing morning, check out, but leave your luggage at the hotel. Take the first bus to Mycenae (whose tragic inhabitants may well have been the subject of the previous night’s play). Marvel at this legendary prehistoric city for a few hours, then go back to Nafplio and hop on a bus back to Athens.

Morning

Start the day with the Sunday brunch served in the garden courtyard of the Athenaeum Maria Callas , accompanied by famous opera recordings.

Satiated with food and music, head for Psirri to the shop of Stavros Melissinos (the Poet Sandalmaker). He will custom-fit you a classic pair of Greek sandals, and possibly try to sell you an English translation of one of his books.

Proceed to Plateia Monastiraki, overlooked by the Folk Ceramic Museum. Step inside for a while or take a walk around the closed but visible-to-thepublic Hadrian’s Library.

Early Afternoon

Then head over to the Roman Agora The Agora), the sprawling marketplace that was Athens’ heart for centuries. Take a good two hours here, making sure not to miss the fantastically well-preserved Temple of Hephaestus and the restored Stoa of Attalos, home to the excellent Agora Museum.

Now that you’re warmed up, it’s time to go back down Adrianou simply for the fun of haggling at the lively Flea Market at Plateia Avissynias. It’s hard to resist buying at least something, though by this stage of the day it is more likely to be fabulous kitschy junk than bargain antique.

Once you’re done, retire with your booty to Café Avissynias to enjoy a long lunch, as the marketplace closes down and the music and drinking start up.