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This is a contender for the most beautiful monastery in Greece, with its idyllic location, looking across a valley to the soaring Elikonas mountain range, and fine Byzantine frescoes within. The interiors of the two distinct 11th-century churches are covered in marvellous mosaic and marble icons and decorations.

Close to Neo Faliro metro station, this bowl-shaped concrete structure was opened in 1985. Since then it has hosted numerous sporting events, including the 1997 European Basketball Championship, which Greece won, and the 1998 World Basketball Championship. It is also used for rock concerts. At the 2004 Olympics it hosted the volleyball matches.

The largest park in Athens is green and spacious, although not as densely planted and lovely as the National Gardens. Despite its size, Pediou tou Areos has more of a feel of a neighbourhood park, with old ladies sitting on benches and kids riding bikes. Because of its close proximity to political and intellectual Exarcheia, it is often the scene of rallies, outdoor concerts and cultural events such as the annual book fair. (see Pediou tou Areos)

It may seem a little worn around the edges, but this is the place to be for all your liberal intellectual café-sitting needs. The roads leading up to it are covered with graffiti decrying the latest actions of Western imperialist governments, and blanketed with leaflets advertising the latest demonstration of the week. De rigueur frappé-sipping attire is unruly hair, black turtlenecks and messenger bags. Of course, there is also a jaded awareness of Exarcheia’s reputation – as seen at the likes of the cutesy creperie called “Anarchy”. At night it’s an atmospheric place to be as the rembetika music starts up.

At some point everyone passes through this green, shady plateia, lined with cafés both old-world and trendy. Try To Tristato for Victorian ambience and heavenly teas and cakes, or Kydatheneon for a view of the scene. Catch a rooftop movie and Acropolis view at Cine Paris. Relax on benches in the almost-hidden stone-paved centre. Neo-Classical buildings peer over tree-tops at the whole scene.

This square has long played a role in Athens’ political history. Its name comes from the ancient Greek word for “crying”, which is applied here because of the tradition of politicians commiserating at this square if they have suffered election losses. It is also a site of rallies, demonstrations and concerts.

There has been a church and monastery on this site since at least the 10th century. The current church was built in 1678. The monastery once owned many of the surrounding buildings, which were later destroyed, but the area’s name (Monastiraki means “little monastery”) still derives from its glory days. Currently, the church is being restored and should reopen in early 2006. The square and metro station reopened in 2004.

One hundred years ago, Omonia was among the largest, most gracious and important central squares in Athens. These days, while still large and central, it is also the hang-out spot for prostitutes, porn peddlers, drug addicts, street hawkers and bewildered tourists, as well as a constant chaotic tangle of traffic and construction. Having said all that, in preparation for the 2004 Olympics, Omonia underwent a major renovation, with art installations brought in, a pedestrian walkway created and a scheme to restore its once-beautiful Neo-Classical façades.

This is where the student demonstrations in 1973 (see Omonia and Exarcheia) began. And in front of the Polytechnic there is a marble statue of a youth lying on the ground – a monument to the fallen heroes of the uprising. Every year on 17 November, all of Greece’s politicians turn out to put flowers at the memorial.