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Overlooked by most tourists, Poros is famous for its fragrant lemon groves. Pass over Poros town to walk in the dark woods and bright groves of Kalavria.

If you go to the islands of Andros or Evia, you’ll spend time in Rafina, Attica’s second-largest port after Piraeus. It’s smaller and cleaner than its chaotic big brother, but still bustling, filled with fish joints and hawkers. If you have a few hours to kill, take the small bus from the port to the decent beach, which also has a bar. If you’re brave enough, climb up on rocks abutting the beach and join the local children in adrenaline-rush cliff-diving.

The ruins of these temples to Nemesis (goddess of divine retribution) and Thetis (Achilles’ mother and goddess of law) are among Greece’s most unspoiled sites, in a romantically isolated and overgrown grotto with an alluring sea view. Nearby are some beautiful secluded beaches.

Julius Caesar and Augustus were founders of this Roman marketplace, which replaced the original Greek Agora, and their names are inscribed on the grand Gate of Athena Archegetis. But its most striking feature, the Tower of the Winds, was built in 50 BC, 100 years earlier. There is no other building like it in the ancient world: eight-sided, each side sculpted with a personification of the winds and their names inscribed: Boreas, Kaikias, Apeliotes, Euros, Notos, Lips, Zephyros and Skiron. (see Roman Forum, Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds)

Wooded Salamina has a rich history – playwright Euripides was born here, and in 480 BC, the Greeks famously beat Xerxes here. Its proximity to the industry around Piraeus makes it less popular today.

Built in the 4th century BC, this shrine was both an oracle and health resort. It honoured Amphiaraos, an Argonaut prophet who was tricked into fighting against Thebes, even though he foresaw that he would be killed. In the retreat, he was swallowed by the earth, and reincarnated as a demi-god, returning at this site. In spring, this gladed site is blanketed with flowers.

This temple to Artemis, goddess of the hunt and childbirth, was once the most sacred in Attica. Its highlight was the bear festival, where young girls dressed as cubs performed the “bear dance” in honour of the goddess’s favourite animal. When King Agamemnon sacrificed his daughter Iphigenia to Artemis, the goddess saved her and brought her here, where she became a high priestess. Her tomb is the oldest cult shrine on the site. Today the well-preserved site remains green and tranquil. Its museum displays cult finds.

Many consider Schinias the most beautiful beach area in Attica, its white-sand coast hugged by dark pine forests. However, the area is undergoing huge changes for the 2004 Olympics, which include building an artificial lake, and possibly archaeological and environmental parks. This means many tavernas are springing up on the once-pristine shore. But with a car it’s still possible to find many lovely spots to swim along the coast here, especially mid-week.

Popular with British tourists, Spetses offers pine forests, good beaches and a charming harbour town. Cars are banned, but fun water taxis can take you around the coast.

Greeks have told funny, subversive tales via shadow puppet theatre for centuries. The art form is kept alive here.