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Athens : Places to eat

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  • There’s no sign, but you’ll spot this cult favourite by all the students tucking into Uncle John’s hearty dirt-cheap dishes.

  • A most popular taverna, open year round on the beach. Mussels are the local speciality – baked, fried or served in sauce. The homemade vegetable pies are also good.

  • Former chef at Vardis, Franco-Cretan Jean de Grylleau has brought his talents to a new address. Dishes like soy-citrus marinated sea bream with cold tagliatelle are refined but bursting with flavour, and an excellent wine list boasts the best from Greece and France.

  • Posh and pricey, this Italian nouvelle cuisine restaurant is prime dining and has an admirable wine list.

  • A vast terrace with stunning views from Kastella across the sea to Athens compensates for an impersonal, dated interior.

  • Ladies who lunch and writer-types fill this bright, trendy café for light lunches and, later, the tables outside for wine and cocktails.

  • While away Sunday afternoons overlooking the Mona-stiraki market in this hidden belle époque gem. French and Arab food and music.

  • With comfy wicker chairs in a garden overlooking the boats at Pasalimani, stop here for a morning coffee, an afternoon ice cream, a pre-dinner cocktail or a Greek brandy nightcap.

  • The hottest drinking and socializing spot in town. Packed from mid-afternoon onwards at the weekends, when the beautiful people drop in.

  • Summer or winter, rain or shine, this small pedestrianized section of street lined with tiny bars is always a hive of festivity and conviviality.

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