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Athens : Kerameikos

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Kerameikos

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  • The outer walls of ancient Athens run through Kerameikos, once the edge of the Classical city. Warriors and priest-esses returned to Athens via two separate roads through here (one to a brothel, the other to a temple). Statesmen and heroes were buried beneath showy tombs lining the roads. And it was also the scene of far shadier activities: the haunt of prostitutes, money-lenders and wine-sellers.

    For sights and pleasures in areas neighbouring Kerameikos (see Monastiraki, Psiri, Gazi and Thissio)
Top 10 Sights
  • 1. City Walls

    The walls, which surrounded the entire city, were built by Athenian ruler Themistockles in 478 BC. Made in haste, the walls incorporated materials from all over the city, including marble from tombs, temples and houses.

  • 2. Dipylon

    The grand entrance to Athens was the largest gate in ancient Greece. The main roads from Thebes, Corinth and the Peloponnese led to this gate, and many ceremonial events were held here to mark arrivals and departures.

  • 3. Pompeiion

    The Pompeiion was used to prepare for festive and religious processions, especially the annual Panathenaic procession, in which a new garment was brought to the statue of Athena in the Parthenon.

  • 4. Sacred Gate

    Through this well-preserved gate passed the Sacred Way, reserved for pilgrims and priest-esses during the procession to Eleusis (see Eleusis). A great marble sphinx was built into the gate.

  • 5. Warriors’ Tombs

    The high, round burial mounds (tumuli) lining the holy road date from the 7th century BC and were probably first built to honour great warriors. Most have marble coffins and offerings at their centres, with the mounds built up around them.

  • 6. Sanctuary of the Tritopatores

    It is uncertain who exactly the Tritopatores were, but they may have been representatives of the souls of the dead, and been worshipped in an ancestor cult.

  • 7. Tomb of Dexileos

    This marble-relief carved tomb is of a young horseman who died in 394 BC. The dead of ancient Greece were often depicted along with their living family, saying a final goodbye.

  • 8. Marble Bull

    The bull of the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos is perhaps the most recognizable monument here. Its inscriptions tell us that Dionysios was praised for his goodness, and died unmarried, mourned by his mother and sisters.

  • 9. Stele of Hegeso

    This lovely grave pediment is one of the finest works of 5th-century BC Attic art. Hegeso, the dead woman, is seated, taking a trinket from a box. The original is in the National Archaeological Museum.

  • 10. Oberlander Museum

    This small museum is packed with fascinating finds, including originals of many tombs replaced by casts. Don’t miss pottery shards of erotic scenes from a brothel.

Practical Information
The green site and surrounding industrial buildings are at their most eerily lovely in the early evening, tinged pink by the setting sun. Several reasonably priced tavernas line the nearby streets of Adrianou and Apostolou Pavlou. Head to either for a traditional outdoor lunch. Ermou 148, Thissio 210 331 0137; 210 331 4324 Metro: Thissio Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–3pm daily Adm €2 Oberlander Museum Apr–Oct: 8am–7pm daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–3pm daily
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