For decades these old neighbourhoods of warehouses and workshops lay quiet, crumbling and neglected, enlivened only by the Monastiraki flea market, which spills out antiques, kitsch and junk from Plateia Avissynias. However, in recent years the appeal of central location, cheap rent, chic renovated factory space and an authentically funky atmosphere lured first galleries, then clubs, cafés and restaurants, to move into what’s now the hippest area in town. Gentrification hasn’t robbed these districts of their character, though. Rather, craftsmen’s shops and industrial buildings nestle side-by-side with edgy clubs, hole-in-the-wall Greek music dives and squares filled with outdoor cafés and bars. Adding to the mix are views of marble antiquities at the Agora and Kerameikos, Athens’ greenest archaeological sites.
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The stretch of this street from the Thissio metro to Hadrian’s Library offers a wonderful view of the ancient Agora and Acropolis.
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One of the most interesting archaeological sites in Greece, this is where Socrates “corrupted” youth, St Paul preached and converted his first followers, and the first decisions in the fledgling democracy were made. Don’t miss the wonderfully preserved Temple of Hephaestus, or the recreated Stoa of Attalos, now home to the excellent Agora Museum. (see The Agora)
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Beautiful people fill the cool, silver-and-white interior of the Athens version of this restaurant/ club, which originated on Mykonos.
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From the gimmicky entrance (playing on the name, “left-right”) to the cheeky toilets, you’re in for a good time. But the real draw is the food. (see Aristera-Dexia)
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Using only the finest Greek ingredients, freshly handmade every day, these chocolates are strictly for connoisseurs.
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One of the best-established of the cluster of Psiri galleries, Artio is known for promoting the work of cutting-edge conceptual artists.
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This conservatory, named after Greece’s native daughter, hosts the annual international Maria Callas Grand Prix opera competition. Sunday breakfast in the courtyard is accompanied by opera records.
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Most important 20th-century Greek artists are represented in this collection of 2,355 works of art. These include paintings and engravings, as well as several drawings by Bavarian architect Ernst Ziller, who designed many of Athens’ most important Neo-Classical buildings. Here you can see his plans for the National Theatre and designs for the city’s grandest private homes, now mostly converted to museums and public spaces.
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Small, seedy Plateia Avissynias comes alive on Sunday mornings when Athens’ biggest and most colourful flea market fills the space and spills out to the streets around it. Here’s where you’ll find everything you didn’t know you needed: pink cut-glass Turkish liqueur sets, 100-year-old phones that still work, beautiful antique carved-wood desks, and piles of fantastic kitsch and junk. Bring your haggling skills.
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Everything under the sun, from ancient coins to fake designer sunglasses, frilly knickers and antiques at rock-bottom prices (see Athens’ Flea Market).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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