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One of the most interesting archaeological sites in Greece, this is where Socrates “corrupted” youth, St Paul preached and converted his first followers, and the first decisions in the fledgling democracy were made. Don’t miss the wonderfully preserved Temple of Hephaestus, or the recreated Stoa of Attalos, now home to the excellent Agora Museum. (see The Agora)

This enormous complex used to be a toxin-spewing foundry, hence the name of the neighbourhood, “Gazi” (gaslands). These days it’s been converted into a huge arts centre, hosting top-notch exhibits, concerts and arts spaces – hence the building’s new name, which means “art city”. The conversion to Technopolis has prompted a revitalization of the entire area, with trendy bars and restaurants springing up among the gaslands. Check the Athens News (see Newspapers) for listings of the frequent events.

A green oasis in the middle of factories and hardware markets, this is the site of the oldest and largest burial ground in Attica. This is also the outer wall of the ancient city, and running through it is the Sacred Way. Outside the site, the road continues, still incongruously named Sacred Way despite its congested traffic and empty warehouses. (see Kerameikos)

Most important 20th-century Greek artists are represented in this collection of 2,355 works of art. These include paintings and engravings, as well as several drawings by Bavarian architect Ernst Ziller, who designed many of Athens’ most important Neo-Classical buildings. Here you can see his plans for the National Theatre and designs for the city’s grandest private homes, now mostly converted to museums and public spaces.

Small, seedy Plateia Avissynias comes alive on Sunday mornings when Athens’ biggest and most colourful flea market fills the space and spills out to the streets around it. Here’s where you’ll find everything you didn’t know you needed: pink cut-glass Turkish liqueur sets, 100-year-old phones that still work, beautiful antique carved-wood desks, and piles of fantastic kitsch and junk. Bring your haggling skills.

There has been a church and monastery on this site since at least the 10th century. The current church was built in 1678. The monastery once owned many of the surrounding buildings, which were later destroyed, but the area’s name (Monastiraki means “little monastery”) still derives from its glory days. Currently, the church is being restored and should reopen in early 2006. The square and metro station reopened in 2004.

This is an outpost of the Museum of Greek Folk Art (see Museum of Greek Folk Art), housed in an 18th-century mosque. The museum’s extensive collection includes rich, colourful ceramics, sculpture and decorative folk objects from all over Greece and Asia Minor. Most of the exhibits are made from terracotta or the gleaming faïence that was favoured by the ancient Minoans.

Roman Emperor Hadrian built this sumptuous “library” (really more of a luxurious forum) in AD 131. It had a courtyard, mosaic floors, concert areas, and a small area for storing library scrolls, all surrounded by extra-fancy Corinthian columns. Following extensive excavation and restoration, part of the site is now open to the public. (see Hadrian’s Library)

One of Athens’ greatest pleasures is walking down a crowded street and suddenly finding yourself face-to-face with a tiny, centuries-old monument in the midst of all the modernity.. The beautiful 10th-century church known as Kapnikarea, smack in the middle of the shopping street of Ermou, provides just such a moment. Built over the ruins of an ancient temple to a goddess, the church kept the theme, with its dedication to the Virgin.

A former silk factory converted into a trendy, upmarket arts centre. Athinais has two restaurants – one, Red, is renowned for its creative food and luscious red-curtained decor (see Red) – plus a museum, bar, music hall and old-fashioned cinema. Check the Athens News for events listings.