The landscape changes as soon as you drive through Athens’ northern suburbs; the sight of pristine, pine-clad Mount Parnitha opens the way to the wide, varied landscape of central Greece. The region, Sterea Ellada, is fringed with mountains, lined with coastal towns and dotted with Byzantine monasteries and ancient ruins. Delphi is the undoubted star and, indeed, the country’s most beautiful Classical site. Here, the fabled Oracle voiced its prophecies, telling Oedipus, among others, his terrible fate. Delphi’s surrounds are full of beauty and opportunities for swimming, trekking and skiing.
Note: When visiting monasteries and churches, make sure your arms and legs are covered Buses to most destinations north of Athens, such as Delphi, Thebes and Galaxidi, leave from Terminal B, Liossion 260-
Day One
Set out from Athens, breaking up the three-hour drive to Delphi with stops at the scenic monasteries of Dafni and Osios Loukas.
Close to Delphi, you might want to stay either at the seaside town of Galaxidi, if it’s summer, or in the snowy mountain village of Arachova in winter. If the former, check into the charming Ganimede hotel and spend the late afternoon at the beach; if the latter, consider staying in a family chateau at the fabulous Elatos Resort (see Elatos Resort, Arachova). Here, you can take the afternoon to ski at the Parnassos Ski Centre, or to explore the many mountain trails.
Day Two
The next day, head to the ancient site of Delphi bright and early. You’ll want to spend a lot of time wandering around the Temple of Apollo, wondering about the strange rituals of the ancient priestesses who communed with the Oracle. Be sure not to miss the museum or the nearby Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia (see Sights in Delphi).
If you are in a hurry to return to Athens, grab a quick snack at Taverna Vakhos in Delphi before leaving. If not, you’ll find more sophisticated fare at Galaxidi and Arachova – try the mussels at Barko tis Maritsas in Galaxidi, or the sausages and grilled formaella cheese at Arachova’s Karaouli .
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This mountain village makes a good alternative base for visiting Delphi and Parnassos. It is an extremely popular winter destination for rich Athenians, and room prices are higher here in winter. Though the main thoroughfare is lined with shops hawking local rugs, honey and cheese, the best way to explore is to get lost in its stone-lined passageways.
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The Athenians decorated their offering with elegant friezes depicting their hometown heroes Theseus and Herakles. The latter’s famous Twelve Labours were performed at the Oracle’s behest.
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A good place to warm up on a cold winter’s weekend – the crackling fireplace casts a glow over everything. Go for a bowl of hot, aromatic stifado stew (see Stifado).
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A most popular taverna, open year round on the beach. Mussels are the local speciality – baked, fried or served in sauce. The homemade vegetable pies are also good.
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Though now mostly dry, this spring was where pilgrims cleansed themselves before entering the holy site. You can still see the elaborate fountain-house built around it.
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The lovely monastery here is one of the greatest treasures of the Byzantine Empire. Inside, the brilliant mosaics are among the most perfectly executed examples of the genre. It is currently closed for restoration work and is scheduled to reopen in 2006.
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The centre of the world, as Zeus divined by releasing two eagles from opposite ends of the universe and seeing where they crossed. Great mystic powers are associated with this site, whose jutting mountain, gaping chasms and rushing springs indicate a place of dramatic geological upheaval. In ancient times, priestesses communed with the Oracle of Delphi, which gave famously abstruse prophecies. Apollo won dominion over the Oracle, and the site is full of temples to the god and prophets. (see Sights in Delphi)
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For 1,400 years, this was one of Greece’s most sacred places. Thousands of pilgrims took part in the Eleusian Mysteries, rites that celebrated Demeter, goddess of nature, and her daughter Persephone. Today Eleusis has become one of Greece’s ugliest places – a polluted industrial town. There are still some scattered ruins, though, and a museum to help make sense of them.
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People come here après ski to warm up with coffee, drinks and snacks. Simple evening meals include pasta, casseroles and steaks.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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