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A tiny, peaceful 11th-century church in the bustle of the marketplace. The wall paintings are 19th century.

Built in 1895, the church of Agios Nikolaos Pefkakia (St Nicholas of the Pines) crowns the top of steep Dervenion, and is a looming landmark on all the streets below.

One of Athens’ oldest and best-loved live music clubs, showcasing rock and alternative bands. Rave parties after 1am.

The headquarters for managing Athens’ chaotic sprawl. The archaeological dig in front reveals an area just outside Athens’ old city walls.

Bold, bright bowls, platters, vases and ornaments, some decorated with stripes, zigzags and naïve painted fruit, others just left plain and natural.

The city’s university, Academy of Arts and National Library (see National Library) make up a trio of the most important Neo-Classical buildings in Athens. The column bases and capitals of the university entrance are replicas of those in the Acropolis Propylaia, and the Academy entrance draws from the eastern side of the Erechtheion. The university’s frescoes depict personifications of the arts around the modern king, Otto.

A beloved central Athens institution, especially among journalists, who trade stories at the marble-topped tables. The plentiful mezes are consistently good.

There’s no sign, but you’ll spot this cult favourite by all the students tucking into Uncle John’s hearty dirt-cheap dishes.

The bland decor belies the wild scenes that come to life after 2am. One of the few rembetatika to draw a primarily young, hip crowd with its gypsy blues.