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Omonia and Exarcheia : Editor's choice

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  • A tiny, peaceful 11th-century church in the bustle of the marketplace. The wall paintings are 19th century.

  • Built in 1895, the church of Agios Nikolaos Pefkakia (St Nicholas of the Pines) crowns the top of steep Dervenion, and is a looming landmark on all the streets below.

  • The headquarters for managing Athens’ chaotic sprawl. The archaeological dig in front reveals an area just outside Athens’ old city walls.

  • Free exhibits by contemporary Greek artists, a theatre museum, and a lovely café with great people-watching potential.

  • One of the important Neo-Classical trio of downtown buildings (see Athens University and Academy of Arts). Venture in to admire the library’s gorgeous reading room.

  • The acoustics aren’t great and the Megaron Moussikis draws far more international stars, but the loyal generations who come in furs and lacquered hairdos will always feel at home here.

  • National Theatre

    The majestic outlines of Hadrian’s Library served as the model for this fine Neo-Classical building’s façade. Performances by the National Theatre troupe are Greece’s finest.

  • Come to the colourful Saturday street market here for a real feeling of the vibrant community of Exarcheia.

  • This gallery presents both Greek and foreign contemporary artists. Visits by appointment. Check the website for current exibitions.

  • It’s not the prettiest – or cleanest – hill in Athens, but it does give a great view over the whole of the gritty, soulful neighbour-hoods of Exarcheia and Omonia.

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