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Morning
Start at Greece’s greatest treasure storehouse: the National Archaeological Museum. Spend around 90 minutes, making sure to see the Mycenean Treasure, Thira Frescoes and Classical statuary.
When leaving the museum, turn left on Patission, noting the neighbouring Polytechnic, scene of 1973’s historic protests. Outside the building, a marble figure lies on the ground, memorializing the fallen students.
Turn left on Stournari, and head for Plateia Exarcheia for a frappé and to watch the punks, anarchists and models go by. In summer, head to Yiantes for an alfresco lunch.
Afternoon
Venture downhill on Themistokleous, where most of Greece’s independent filmmakers have their offices. Go through Plateia Omonia, just to see Athens’ most chaotic spot, but get out as quickly as possible, on Athinas.
You’ll pass Athens City Hall (see Athens City Hall) on your right before turning left on Sophocleous. Go down this street to see the National Bank of Greece, built on stilts over part of the Themistoklean Wall.
Double back to get to the city’s real heart – Central Food Market . Lose yourself in the sights, sounds and smells of the stalls. If it’s not summer, finish up at Stoa Athanaton , the city’s best rembetatiko, for fantastic music and a delicious traditional meal.
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