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The city’s university, Academy of Arts and National Library (see National Library) make up a trio of the most important Neo-Classical buildings in Athens. The column bases and capitals of the university entrance are replicas of those in the Acropolis Propylaia, and the Academy entrance draws from the eastern side of the Erechtheion. The university’s frescoes depict personifications of the arts around the modern king, Otto.

This was the first house built in Athens after it was declared capital of the new kingdom of Greece in 1834. Otto, Greece’s first king, had it joined with next door, and lived here while he waited for the first Royal Palace (now Parliament) to be built. Today the old residence houses a collection of paintings and furnishings telling the modern city’s history, with a focus on the War of Independence (see War of Independence) and the first years of the monarchy.

Housed here is one of the world’s most precious collections of ancient inscriptions, including the official records of early Athens, carved on stone and marble slabs. It’s a fascinating trove of Athenean lore, and the most important exhibits include: a decree by the assembly of Athens ordering the evacuation of the city before the Persian invasion in 480 BC; a sacred law concerning temple-worship on the Acropolis; and a stele carved with accounts of the construction of the Erechtheion at the Acropolis some 2,400 years ago.

The largest park in Athens is green and spacious, although not as densely planted and lovely as the National Gardens. Despite its size, Pediou tou Areos has more of a feel of a neighbourhood park, with old ladies sitting on benches and kids riding bikes. Because of its close proximity to political and intellectual Exarcheia, it is often the scene of rallies, outdoor concerts and cultural events such as the annual book fair. (see Pediou tou Areos)

It may seem a little worn around the edges, but this is the place to be for all your liberal intellectual café-sitting needs. The roads leading up to it are covered with graffiti decrying the latest actions of Western imperialist governments, and blanketed with leaflets advertising the latest demonstration of the week. De rigueur frappé-sipping attire is unruly hair, black turtlenecks and messenger bags. Of course, there is also a jaded awareness of Exarcheia’s reputation – as seen at the likes of the cutesy creperie called “Anarchy”. At night it’s an atmospheric place to be as the rembetika music starts up.

This square has long played a role in Athens’ political history. Its name comes from the ancient Greek word for “crying”, which is applied here because of the tradition of politicians commiserating at this square if they have suffered election losses. It is also a site of rallies, demonstrations and concerts.

One hundred years ago, Omonia was among the largest, most gracious and important central squares in Athens. These days, while still large and central, it is also the hang-out spot for prostitutes, porn peddlers, drug addicts, street hawkers and bewildered tourists, as well as a constant chaotic tangle of traffic and construction. Having said all that, in preparation for the 2004 Olympics, Omonia underwent a major renovation, with art installations brought in, a pedestrian walkway created and a scheme to restore its once-beautiful Neo-Classical façades.

This is where the student demonstrations in 1973 (see Omonia and Exarcheia) began. And in front of the Polytechnic there is a marble statue of a youth lying on the ground – a monument to the fallen heroes of the uprising. Every year on 17 November, all of Greece’s politicians turn out to put flowers at the memorial.