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The majestic outlines of Hadrian’s Library served as the model for this fine Neo-Classical building’s façade. Performances by the National Theatre troupe are Greece’s finest.

The headquarters for managing Athens’ chaotic sprawl. The archaeological dig in front reveals an area just outside Athens’ old city walls.

This gallery presents both Greek and foreign contemporary artists. Visits by appointment. Check the website for current exibitions.

A tiny, peaceful 11th-century church in the bustle of the marketplace. The wall paintings are 19th century.

One of the important Neo-Classical trio of downtown buildings (see Athens University and Academy of Arts). Venture in to admire the library’s gorgeous reading room.

The acoustics aren’t great and the Megaron Moussikis draws far more international stars, but the loyal generations who come in furs and lacquered hairdos will always feel at home here.

Free exhibits by contemporary Greek artists, a theatre museum, and a lovely café with great people-watching potential.

Built in 1895, the church of Agios Nikolaos Pefkakia (St Nicholas of the Pines) crowns the top of steep Dervenion, and is a looming landmark on all the streets below.

Come to the colourful Saturday street market here for a real feeling of the vibrant community of Exarcheia.

It’s not the prettiest – or cleanest – hill in Athens, but it does give a great view over the whole of the gritty, soulful neighbour-hoods of Exarcheia and Omonia.