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Romantic split-level restaurant-bar built into a cliff overlooking the sea. Creative fish, meat and cheese mezes.

From Freatida, a 3-km (2-mile) long lantern-lined coastal promenade, overlooked by modern apartment blocks and a string of informal fish restaurants, offers wonderful views across the open sea to the islands of Aegina and Salamina. The route, named after the 5th-century BC general and statesman Themistokles, who founded Piraeus, follows the course of the ancient seaward walls. Down below, a series of rocky bays offers the chance of bathing. The prettiest spot of all is Aphrodite’s Bay.

Standing by the remains of the 2nd-century BC Theatre of Zea, the showpieces here are two Classical bronze statues found in Piraeus in 1959: the proud and perfectly proportioned 5th-century BC Piraeus Apollo and the 4th-century BC Piraeus Athene. Also on display is a collection of 5th-and 4th-century BC marble stele (classical gravestones) with touching reliefs of the deceased.

Ancient Epicurean classics, such as suckling pig stuffed with liver, apple, chestnuts and raisins, are served here, much as they would have been back in the 3rd century BC.

Built in Livorno (Italy) in 1910, this 140-m (460-ft) long battleship was designed to carry 670 men in peacetime and 1,200 during war, and led the Greek fleet through the Balkan Wars and World Wars I and II. Negotiating a series of narrow ladders, you can explore the entire ship, from the kitchen and engine rooms to the main bridge, from the cramped dark space where the crew slept in hammocks, to the contrasting luxury of the officers’ mess and the Admiral’s sumptuous wooden panelled suite.

A vast terrace with stunning views from Kastella across the sea to Athens compensates for an impersonal, dated interior.

With comfy wicker chairs in a garden overlooking the boats at Pasalimani, stop here for a morning coffee, an afternoon ice cream, a pre-dinner cocktail or a Greek brandy nightcap.

Two blue-fronted buildings comprise this popular ouzeri and psarotaverna, with lovely views from its seafront terrace.

A seductive hillside retreat with an old-fashioned interior. Creaky wooden stairs lead to a roof terrace, with dreamy, romantic views.