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This large circular bay, with a bottleneck channel opening out to the sea, is surrounded by imposing eight-storey modern apartment blocks. Inaugurated as Athens’ main naval base in the 5th century BC, the ancient harbour of Zea could accommodate 196 triremes (see Athenian Trireme)). Today, up to 400 of the most impressive motor yachts in Greece moor here. It takes about 20 minutes to walk the perimeter of the bay, along a tree-lined promenade overlooked by open-air cafés.

Pasalimani

Housed in a 1960s building by the harbour, this exhibition opens with a map of Odysseus’s voyage across the Mediterranean. It then traces the history of Greek naval trading, with models of ships ranging from the 5th-century BC trireme to modern tankers (Greece has the largest merchant fleet in the world). Naval warfare is covered by massive oil paintings of historic sea battles against the Turks, plus red flags bearing the star and crescent captured from them.

From Freatida, a 3-km (2-mile) long lantern-lined coastal promenade, overlooked by modern apartment blocks and a string of informal fish restaurants, offers wonderful views across the open sea to the islands of Aegina and Salamina. The route, named after the 5th-century BC general and statesman Themistokles, who founded Piraeus, follows the course of the ancient seaward walls. Down below, a series of rocky bays offers the chance of bathing. The prettiest spot of all is Aphrodite’s Bay.

Standing by the remains of the 2nd-century BC Theatre of Zea, the showpieces here are two Classical bronze statues found in Piraeus in 1959: the proud and perfectly proportioned 5th-century BC Piraeus Apollo and the 4th-century BC Piraeus Athene. Also on display is a collection of 5th-and 4th-century BC marble stele (classical gravestones) with touching reliefs of the deceased.

Best known for its excellent fish restaurants with open-air waterside terraces, this delightful small, circular bay is built on a human scale. The ancients, who kept their ships here, believed it was protected by the goddess Munichia Artemis, and initially named it after her. The Turkish navy used it too, which is why it is still sometimes known as Tourkolimano (Turkish harbour). Today it is filled with the small wooden boats of local fishermen, who supply the surrounding restaurants from their daily catch.

Europe’s top destination for yachters, thanks to its myriad islands, Greece has a 3,500-year tradition of sailing. Set in landscaped gardens on a peninsula on the south side of Mikrolimano, the yacht club was founded in 1934. The main clubhouse is the province of members only, but you can stroll around the marina, then stop for a drink at the chic rooftop café (see Places to Eat).

Built into the hillside of Profitis Ilias, which overlooks Mikrolimano, this picturesque residential quarter is filled with pastel-coloured Neo-Classical houses, built between 1834 and 1900, and a labyrinth of steep streets and stairways. There’s a village atmosphere here, making it a great area to explore on foot. The highest point is crowned by the church of Profitis Ilias and the Bowling Centre Café (see Bowling Centre Café), which offers spectacular views of Athens, while nearby the small open-air Veakeio Theatre is used for staging delightful summer performances.

Directly behind Piraeus metro station, in a street parallel to the railway line, this is often compared to Athens’ Monastiraki Sunday market (see Athens’ Flea Market), though it’s decidedly grottier. It gets very crowded, attracting tourists, Athenians and local minorities: Albanian immigrants have several shops selling Albanian flags and music, while colourfully dressed gypsies hawk seasonal fruit and nuts.

Close to Neo Faliro metro station, this bowl-shaped concrete structure was opened in 1985. Since then it has hosted numerous sporting events, including the 1997 European Basketball Championship, which Greece won, and the 1998 World Basketball Championship. It is also used for rock concerts. At the 2004 Olympics it hosted the volleyball matches.

Built in Livorno (Italy) in 1910, this 140-m (460-ft) long battleship was designed to carry 670 men in peacetime and 1,200 during war, and led the Greek fleet through the Balkan Wars and World Wars I and II. Negotiating a series of narrow ladders, you can explore the entire ship, from the kitchen and engine rooms to the main bridge, from the cramped dark space where the crew slept in hammocks, to the contrasting luxury of the officers’ mess and the Admiral’s sumptuous wooden panelled suite.