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The winding medieval alleyways of Plaka, the old quarter below the Acropolis, are easily the most charming part of Athens. Naturally, they are also the most visited, and in midsummer some streets can be packed with touts and cheap gift shops. But Plaka is also very good at concealing places of untouched delight. The working-class areas of Makrigianni and Koukaki are shaking off old dust, and must-see museums, four-star restaurants and ultra-hip clubs are appearing.
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Early Morning
Hike up to the Acropolis first thing to beat the heat and the worst of the crowds. Then spend an hour or so admiring the temples.
Come down from the Acropolis and turn left onto the Dionisiou Areopagitiou Walkway . Your Acropolis ticket gives you free entry into the Theatre of Dionysus, where many of the great Classical dramas were first staged.
Head back out to the walkway and turn right on Makrigianni to visit the New Acropolis Museum . Next, head to Plateia Lysikratous, named after the unusual monument to the winner of a 335 BC choral competition.
Stop for a frappé in one of the leafy cafés overlooking Lysikratous – O Diogenous has the best view.
Late Morning
From the square, head up towards the charming 19th-century quarter of Anafiotika to explore its twisting alleys.
Leave by Prytaneiou, stopping in the quiet garden of the Byzantine Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and lighting a candle from its famed extra-holy flame.
From Prytaneiou, turn right on Mnisikleous and left on Kyrristou for a choice of either the tiny but delightful Museum of Greek Musical Instruments or the Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds . Finally, head back a block to O Platanos , for a hefty Greek lunch under a huge plane tree.
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The sacred rock of the Acropolis dominates Plaka, and its different temples are clearly visible from all angles throughout the neighbourhood. Legend holds that it was on this rock that Athena (see Athena) won dominion of Athens from Poseidon, and it has been devoted to worshipping the goddess since 650 BC. (see Acropolis, Archaeological Sites - Acropolis)
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Clinging to the side of the Acropolis is Athens’ loveliest and quirkiest hidden neighbourhood. It was built in the 19th century by tradesmen from the Cycladic island of Anafi, brought to Athens after the War of Independence to build King Otto’s palace. They missed home so much that they decided to re-create a pocket of it here, all island-style, dome-topped blue-and-white houses, covered with banks of bougainvillea, in a maze of tiny passageways. Many descendents of the original Anafi workers still live here.
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The name means “codfish”, which this local favourite has been serving up, with strong garlic sauce, for 140 years.
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A cavernous warehouse of handicrafts from every corner of the country. If you only have time for one souvenir stop, make this it.
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Exhibitions showcase work by young artists in mountain tribes, international cities and refugee centres. Many activities for kids.
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This cylindrical monument built in 335 BC honours Lysikrates, victor in the Dionysian Choral competition.
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This lovely restored Byzantine church is on the site of an ancient temple, whose columns still stand below the courtyard.
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Miracles are associated with this beautiful Byzantine church, and many flock here at Easter to light candles from the holy flame.
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The largest medieval church in Athens, it was built in 1031 and is now Athens’ Russian Orthodox church.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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