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Plaka, Makrigianni and Koukaki : Places to eat

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  • The name means “codfish”, which this local favourite has been serving up, with strong garlic sauce, for 140 years.

  • If there’s a celebrity in town, they’re sure to eat in the frescoed dining room of this Neo-Classical mansion.

  • Deeply trendy DeLuxe is usually packed with glossy media types enjoying its “sixties lounge” decor and groovy DJs. It also serves stellar food upstairs.

  • Greece’s first vegetarian restaurant opened in 1982 and is still a haven for herbivores. The atmosphere is refreshingly bright and nonhippie.

  • The food is superb, unfortunately the space is limited and reservations essential. (see Edodi)

  • At this elegant lunchtime stop, the dining room showcases ancient finds, and offers three different, beautifully prepared dishes daily.

  • Stop by this small, cosy spot on a rainy night. The elaborate antique mirrors, old jukebox, huge selection of teas and crackling woodstove will keep you warm.

  • Klepsydra

    This tiny, quiet bar-café behind the Tower of the Winds is surrounded by flower pots and pastel-hued buildings. Locals love it as it’s nicely tucked away.

  • Intellectuals and locals chew the fat in a garden overlooking the square in summer, or in the stone dining room in winter, at this beautiful vestige of the early 20th century.

  • Two floors of silver-and-holograph walls, up-to-the-minute Eurotechno music, and model-perfect boy clientele make this one of Athens’ hottest gay bars.

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