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Citizens from EU countries (plus Norway and Iceland) need only a valid passport to enter Greece, and EU nationals can stay indefinitely. Likewise, US, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand citizens need only a valid passport for entry, and can stay for up to 90 days. Remember that a fine will be imposed if you stay longer without obtaining a visa extension.

As Athens is a major cultural centre, tourists come and go the year round. In summer, many visitors pass through the city on their way to the islands, though this is certainly not the best time to visit: it’s very hot and packed with foreign excursion groups. Try to come in either late spring or early autumn, when you can expect mild weather and a more relaxed atmosphere.

Athens is blessed with a typical Mediterranean climate. Summers are hot, dry and sunny, with temperatures between 22ºC (72ºF) and 32ºC (90ºF) throughout July. Winters tend to be mild, with average temperatures ranging from 7ºC (44ºF) to 13ºC (55ºF) throughout January, with a fair amount of rain and even occasional snow.

In summer, light clothing will suffice, but remember to include items with long sleeves and either trousers or a skirt so you can cover up respectably for visiting the churches. Through the rest of the year, you’ll need warmer clothing. Be sure to take comfortable walking shoes.

Greek is the official language, though many people, especially youngsters and those working in tourism, speak good English. By and large you shouldn’t have any problem communicating, but learning a few basic Greek words shows good will on your part.

Street signs are posted in both Greek and Latin (English alphabet) script, and tourist maps are published using the Latin script. However, shops and restaurants, especially those less frequented by tourists, may have signs in Greek only.

Citizens from EU countries have the right to free basic medical care upon the presentation of a completed E111 form. Travellers from the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand are not covered by the Greek health system, and will be required to pay for all treatment, except emergency casualty visits.

Athens is still one of the safest cities in Europe. Take the usual precautions: lock your car, keep valuables in a safe place and look after your wallet and passport.

Greeks complain that living costs have risen substantially since the introduction of the Euro. Expect to pay prices similar to those in other EU countries, except for taxis and public transport, which are cheaper in Athens than in other European capitals.

The new Greek National Tourist Board (GNTO) information office, close to Plateia Syntagma, offers basic advice and brochures about the city and the surrounding area.

The GNTO website is a good starting point. For archaeological sites and museums, try browsing www.culture.gr for forthcoming cultural events www.cultureguide.gr and for a taste of the Athens Festival summer programme visit www.greekfestival.gr Greece Now (www.greece.gr) features regular articles about contemporary Greek politics and culture.

The English-language papers to look out for are Athens News and Kathimerini . The former has a section listing forthcoming events; the latter is sold as an insert with the International Herald Tribune .

Glossy bi-monthly Odyssey features stories about Greece and the Greek diaspora. Athens Today is a free fortnightly pocket edition with information for visitors.

The city radio station Athens 9.84 (9.84FM) broadcasts the news in English at 8:30am and 4:30 pm Mon–Fri, the BBC World Service is on 107.1 FM and most hotels offer satellite TV.

The GNTO distributes free maps of Central Athens, Piraeus and the coast, and Attica. For the widest range of books about the city in English, try Eleftheroudakis bookshop.

The Athens Chamber of Commerce and Industry offers information about business opportunities in the capital, while the British Hellenic Chamber of Commerce provides information about doing business in Greece.

The Olympic movement (www.olympic.org) provides facts and figures from the Athens 2004 Olympics, plus information about past and future games.

Organizations such as Holiday Care Service and Tipscope, both based in the UK, provide advice and information for disabled visitors travelling to destinations in Greece. In addition, Can Be Done Tours arranges tailor-made holidays especially for people with disabilities.

Greece’s national airline, Olympic Airways, operates direct flights between Athens and most major Europe cities, including London; British Airways and easyJet also operate daily flights from London to Athens (from Heathrow and Gatwick, respectively).

Greece’s national airline, Olympic Airways, operates flights to the Middle East, as well as to Bangkok, Johannesburg, Melbourne, Montreal, Sydney and Toronto. In the US, New York offers the most direct flights to Athens, with Delta flying daily.

For late deals, check out www.lastminute.co.uk and www.bargainflights.com. Some websites, such as www.travelocity.com, will alert you by email when tickets fall below a certain price.

Metro Line 3 runs from the airport to Syntagma in the city centre. In addition, three 24-hour express bus services cover the 27-km (18-mile) stretch between the airport and the city: the E94 runs to Ethniki Amyna metro station; the E95 to Plateia Syntagma and the E96 to Piraeus. Taxis are also readily available and the journey takes approximately 40 minutes.

Though there are no direct ferries from Italy to Piraeus, regular overnight services run from Trieste, Venice, Brindisi, Ancona and Bari to Patra. Most companies then lay on a connecting coach from Patra to Athens. Alternatively, the Hellenic Railways Organization (OSE) operates eight trains daily from Patra to Athens (journey time: 4 hours).

Ferries run from Limassol in Cyprus (journey time approx 44hrs) to the Athens port of Piraeus.

There are regular ferries from the Dodecanese, Cyclades, Saronic Gulf Islands, Crete, Samos and northeastern Aegean Islands to Piraeus. Many islands are also connected to Piraeus by Hellas Flying Dolphins hydrofoils – faster but expensive.

There are international trains to Greece from Bulgaria, the Former-Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM) and Turkey. These terminate at Thessaloniki, where you will need to change trains for Athens, to arrive at Larissa Station.

Major roads linking Greece to its neighbours run to Thessaloniki: The E90 from Turkey; the E79 from Bulgaria; and the E75 from the FYROM. From Thessaloniki, the E75 runs south to Athens. Arriving from Albania, the border crossing into Greece is at Kakavia. From here, take the regional road to Ioannina, the E92 to Larissa, then the E75 south to Athens.

All the main monuments are concentrated in the city centre, which focuses on busy Plateia Syntagma and can easily be negotiated on foot. From here, you can use the hilltops of the Acropolis and Lykavittos Hill as orientation points.

There are three tram lines connecting the city centre and the coast: TI runs from Syntagma to Neo Faliro; T2 from Neo Faliro to Glyfada; and T3 from Glyfada to Syntagma.

The bus network is extensive. Blue buses run daily 5am–12:30am (there is a limited night service); although cheap, they are often rather overcrowded, especially during rush hour. Tickets, which can be bought from most street kiosks (periptera ), should be validated in an orange machine upon boarding. You can also buy monthly passes covering the entire urban network: buses, trolleybuses and the metro.

The network has been through a process of expansion and there are 25 routes covered by yellow trolleybuses. Use the same tickets as for blue buses, and validate them upon boarding.

Running from 5:30am to midnight, the metro is currently undergoing expansion. Line 1 runs north-south between the suburb of Kifissia and Piraeus. Line 2 runs from Sepolia to Dafni, stopping close to the Acropolis en-route, while Line 3 runs from Plateia Syntagma to Eleftherios Venizelos airport.

It’s not worth hiring a car while in Athens, though you may want one for exploring the regions beyond the city. Regulations vary from company to company, but you should be over 21 years old and hold a valid driving licence (see Driving Licences)

Parking in central Athens is a nightmare. The most central (but often very crowded) car park is at Plateia Klafthmonos. Failing that, if your hotel doesn’t have parking space, you’re probably better off using the out-of-town car park at the new Olympic Stadium in Irini, and taking the metro.

Athens’ taxis are bright yellow, plentiful and cheap. They can be ordered by phone for a small surcharge, or waved down in the street. En-route, it’s quite normal for a driver to pick up extra passengers who are heading in your direction. Fares are higher between midnight and 5am, and you also pay extra for luggage and trips to the airport.

A speedy and fun way to zip around is by moped. If you have a valid driving licence, you can rent one from Rent Moto in Koukaki.

Greece adopted the Euro (€) in 2002. The currency is available in denominations of €10, €20, €50 and €100 notes, while coins come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 cent (lepta in Greek) pieces, as well as larger coins worth €1 and €2.

Banks are normally open Mon–Thu 8am–2pm and Fri 8am–1:30pm. ATMs are plentiful in Athens for round-the-clock access to cash. Credit cards are accepted in larger hotels, restaurants and shops, but you will find that less touristy businesses, such as local tavernas, accept cash only.

Airmail letters and postcards take about 4 days to reach other EU countries, and around 10 days to the US, Australia and New Zealand. The most central post office is on Mitropoleos, close to Plateia Syntagma, and works Mon–Fri 7:30am– 8pm, Sat 7:30am–2pm, Sun 9am–2pm. Other post offices around town are open Mon–Fri 8am– 2pm. Post boxes are yellow and have separate slots for national and international mail.

You can make international calls from the Greek Telecommunications (OTE) offices at Patission 85 (open 24 hrs) and Stadiou 15 (Mon–Fri 7am–midnight, Sat–Sun 8am– midnight). It is also possible to call from telephone booths around town – for these you will need a phone card worth 100 units (€4), which can easily be bought at any street kiosk.

If you are calling from outside the country, the international code for Greece is 0030, while the area code for Athens is 210.

All Greek numbers now have a total of ten digits including the area code, which you should use even when dialling from within the respective area.

All Greek mobile numbers begin with 69 and have a total of ten digits.

Cafés with web access are springing up all over the city. The best in the central area are Museum Internet Café (www.museumcafe.gr) at Patission 46, next door to the National Archaeological Museum, Cafe4u (www.cafe4u.gr) at Ippokratous 44 in Exarcheia, which is open 24 hrs and Bits and Bytes at Akadimias 78, close to Omonia. In Piraeus, try Netmania (www.netmania.gr) at Vasileos Pavlou 135, below Kastella.

The Athenaeum InterContinental and the Hilton have well-equipped business centres with telephones, fax machines, internet connection, printers and photocopiers, as well as secretarial and translation services.

The capital’s chic designer boutiques line the streets of Kolonaki, with shoe emporia and high street chains on Ermou and Patission. The bargain market areas are Monastiraki, Psiri and Thissio. However, some suburbs have recently made challenging bids to the centre’s fashion monopoly, and leafy Kifissia in the north hosts a wealth of upmarket designer boutiques and elegant shopping malls filled with expensive imports. In the south, Glyfada boasts a Miami-style coastal boulevard containing branches of most of the centre’s clothing, shoe, accessory, home decoration and beauty stores.

As a general rule, shops open 9am–3pm Mon, Wed and Sat; 9am– 2:30pm & 5–8:30pm Tue, Thu and Fri. Department stores, shops in tourist areas, florists, bakeries and many larger shops stay open later and often do not close for lunch. Chemists are closed Sat, and street kiosks often stay open until midnight.

Most Athens shops accept any major credit card (VISA, American Express, Mastercard, Diners Club), although smaller, family-run shops and tavernas may not. In the countryside and on the islands not only do many establishments refuse credit cards, but also cash points are often few and far between. So, if you are planning a day trip from Athens, make sure you take plenty of cash with you.

VAT of roughly 18% is included in the price of most items bought in Greece; edible produce is taxed at 8.5%.

Goods can be exchanged with a receipt. Although Greek law states that a refund must be given if a customer is dissatisfied with an item purchased, in practice shops will always offer an exchange instead.

Sunday is the day for Athens’ flea market and the flea market in Piraeus (see Sunday Morning Flea Market). Additionally, each area of Athens holds its own weekly street market, the laiko , at which local residents purchase fresh fruit, vegetables, fish and even underwear.

Jan/Feb and August are the proper sales months, but you will find shops with prosfores (discounts) throughout the year. Stock shops such as The Factory Outlet on Pireos (running between Plateia Omonia and Piraeus) has a wide range of designer brands at bargain prices.

Plaka and Monastiraki are the best areas for traditional gifts such as handicrafts, vases, leather goods and worry beads aplenty, as well as more contemporary pieces by young Greek artists. The area around Athinas is the best place to buy olives and olive oil, Greek cheeses, honey, spices, herbs, tin trays and jugs.

Both the Benaki Museum and the Museum of Cycladic Art sell excellent reproductions. The former stocks copies of icons, sculptures and ancient vases, toys and jewellery; the latter trades in wonderful replicas of Cycladic figurines.

Most of the dishes on offer in an estiatorion are oven-baked meat and fish specialities, such as moussaka (layers of aubergine and minced meat) stifado (stew) and gemista (stuffed vegetables), which are often prepared in advance and served luke-warm. Deserts are normally limited to sweet pastries and fresh fruit.

Classic taverna fare is mezes (hors-d’oeuvres), which can be served hot or cold, plus freshly fried or grilled meat and fish dishes. In some establishments there is no menu, but waiters bring round trays laden with dishes on offer, so you can choose what you like the look of. There are no set courses, and plates tend to arrive in a steady, if somewhat random, stream.

A carnivore’s paradise, a psistaria specializes in spit-roasts and char-grilling (sta karvouna ) meats such as souvlaki (shish kebabs), kokoretsi (offal) and spit-roast lamb and chicken. Vegetarians are not entirely un-catered for, and can opt for an assemblage of basic side dishes: horiatiki salata (Greek salad), tzatziki (yoghurt and cucumber dip), saganaki (fried cheese) and tiganites patates (chips).

A psarotaverna specializes in freshly caught local fish such as barbouni (red mullet) and xifias (swordfish). They are normally barbecued and served with lemon and olive oil. Starters might include kalamarakia (baby squid), okhtapodhi (octopus) and garidhes (shrimps).

Taking its name from the strangely uplifting and highly intoxicating anise-flavoured spirit, ouzo, an ouzeri is the place to visit for relaxed drinking and chatting with friends over a range of mezes. Beer and wine are normally also available. Mezedopoleia offer more substantial mezes that, in their variety and quantity, can form quite a feast. Some of Athens’ best are around Omonia (see Ouzeries and Mezedopoleia).

While American-style fast-food chains have made little impression on local eating habits, Greeks are tremendous snackers and happy to satiate their peckishness with tiropites (cheese pies), spanakopites (spinach pies) and takeaway souvlaki (pitta bread filled with barbecued meat, tzatziki and freshly chopped onion and tomatoes). The Greek chain Everest does tasty, freshly filled toasted sandwiches.

The majority of Greeks adhere to the age-old tradition of a strong wake-me-up coffee for breakfast, then eat lunch around 3pm and dinner after 10pm. Most restaurants serve lunch between noon and 4pm and dinner from 8pm until midnight, though in touristy areas such as Plaka you’ll find that many establishments stay open all day.

Greeks regularly eat out with family and friends and tend to dress informally for such occasions. Although it’s best not to turn up in shorts, men are never required to wear ties, even in the smartest restaurants, though Greek women usually dress to impress on a night out.

Many tavernas, particularly in Plaka, lay on nighttime performances of traditional Greek music. They are mainly intended for tourists, but can be lively and entertaining nevertheless.

Athens’ taxis might be cheap but one occasionally hears stories of tourists being overcharged. To avoid this, simply check that the taxi’s meter is displayed and that it is switched on at the start of your journey.

The streets of Plaka are thronged with touts, eager to pull passers-by into restaurants and souvenir shops. To a lesser degree this is true of other city-centre neighbourhoods. Most of these establishments offer perfectly good services, but don’t let yourself be bullied into eating or shopping somewhere against your will.

Respect local customs: even in summer, ensure your shoulders, chest and legs are covered up when visiting churches.

Random stop-checks take place of the buses, trams and metro, and failure to display a valid ticket incurs an on-the-spot fine, ranging from €18 to €29.

The Greek plumbing system has narrow drains that are not adept at dealing with toilet paper: when you use the bathroom, put paper in the white plastic bin provided, not down the toilet. Failure to comply with this rule means running the risk of blocked drains and flooded bathrooms.

An estimated 150,000 stray dogs live on Athens’ streets. In an effort to limit their multiplication, the city council has set up a sterilization scheme, rather than having them put down. These dogs are generally completely harmless, but can appear alarming when running in packs, especially during the mating season.

Greeks smoke almost twice as many cigarettes per capita than the European average. In late 2002, smoking was officially banned in all enclosed public spaces, and restaurants were supposed to adopt designated “Smoking” and “No smoking” areas. However, it remains to be seen how seriously Greeks will take this law, so don’t count on a smoke-free holiday.

This is a congested city. There are many oneway streets and pedestrianized streets in the centre, parking is scarce and the Greeks drive with wild abandon. For all these reasons, it is best for visitors to use public transport, taxis and feet (see Getting Around).

While its very tempting to offer titbits to sadeyed cats imploring you with soft meows, you are likely to incur the wrath of the restaurateur. Stray cats are all too plentiful, and a major nuisance to Athens’ restaurants.

If you’re short of time, let a professional guide whisk you through the city’s ancient core. Key Tours organize amusing and informative tours, starting from the Kalimarmaro Stadium (see Kallimarmaro Stadium), then wending through the city to the Acropolis.

Fantasy Travel arrange evening bus trips to the sea at Piraeus, stopping at Mikrolimani for an ouzo aperitif overlooking the fishing harbour. Then it’s back to the centre for dinner in a Plaka taverna.

An afternoon bus tour along the coast southwest of Athens, past the seaside suburbs of Glyfada, Voula and Vouliagmeni, to the stunning clifftop Temple of Poseidon. There’s just time for an early evening drink before a return to Athens.

Throughout July, Epirotiki Tours arrange evening boat trips to Epidauros for an open-air theatrical performance in the ancient theatre. A candlelit dinner is served aboard on the return journey.

Epirotiki Tours’ boats depart early morning from Paleo Faliro, then cruise around the islands of Aegina, Poros and Hydra, with a short stop at each. Lunch on board is part of the deal, and you’re back in town for the early evening.

Key Tours and Fantasy Travel both offer a full-day trip from Athens to the archaeological site of Delphi. After lunch, the tour takes in the picturesque hillside town of Arachova, renowned for its hand-woven rugs and excellent local cheese.

For a breath of mountain air, book up with Trekking Hellas for a 4-hour hiking expedition up Mount Parnitha. A professional guide will lead you along a marked route up the craggy Houni ravine from Agia Triada to the Bafi refuge.

Ghiolman Yachts have a fleet of smart boats of various sizes available for tailor-made one-day sailing trips in the company of an English-speaking skipper. This is undoubtedly the best way to explore the islands.

The Aegean Dive Center organizes diving trips to a wreck, a cave and a reef along the coast between Glyfada and Cape Sounio. With water temperatures around 26ºC (79ºF) in summer and 14ºC (57ºF) in winter, diving is possible all the year round. The staff speak excellent English, and tuition is available to those with no previous experience.

The Hellenic Chamber of Hotels have a complete list of hotels in Athens and can make reservations for you. The GNTO (see GNTO Services) website also has an extensive list of hotels.

The websites listed in the directory are easy to use and book through, and many offer substantial discounts. Many sites selling flights (see Finding the Cheapest Flights) also offer hotel-booking services.

Athens’ suburbs are vast, and if you choose accommodation on the periphery you will waste a lot of time travelling to the main sights. The most centrally located hotels are in the areas of Plaka, Makrigianni, Koukaki, Monastiraki, Thissio and Syntagma.

High season runs from early July to late September. The period from April to June, plus the month of October are mid-season, and low season runs from the beginning of November to the end of March. Seasonal price differences vary from hotel to hotel.

For all but the luxury hotels, do not be ashamed to try and agree discounts with the hotel management – it is often possible to bargain for prices lower than those quoted, especially if staying for longer periods during low season.

Quoted prices usually include continental breakfast, a standard 12% service charge, and 10% tax. The use of hotel facilities such as gyms and pools is normally free to guests. Rooms in the better hotels have air conditioning, though in the cheaper places you might have to pay extra for this facility, if it is available at all.

If you’ve just got off a plane and need a place to stay, the new Sofitel Athens Airport Hotel is an excellent if rather pricey option (see Sofitel). Alternatively, Plotin Travel (210 353 0440), opposite the Arrivals area, is open 7am–11pm and can help you find reasonably priced accommodation.

If you are travelling alone and looking for cheap accommodation the YHA (see Youth Hostel No. 5 Pangrati) is a good bet. A grade or two up, the Marble House Pension and the Hotel Plaka both have several single rooms. Otherwise, as a general rule, one person in a double pays the full rate, minus the second breakfast.

When booking your hotel, bear in mind that modern hotels tend to be far better equipped. The Hilton and the Athenaeum Inter-Continental both have several rooms specifically designed for disabled travellers.