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Ruthie's Athens guide

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planning YOUR visit
All the information you need to plan
Planning Your Visit

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How to.....get get there
from plane to ferry to bus
Arriving in Athens

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How to ..... get around
from bus to car to motorbike
Getting Around

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Top Places to Visit
from the hills to the valleys
Acropolis

The crown jewel of Greece, if not all of Europe. Its temples are the most influential buildings in Western architecture. (see Acropolis)

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The Agora

Socrates, Aristotle and St Paul all held forth in the marketplace below the Acropolis. This was the heart of the ancient city. (see The Agora)

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Temple of Olympian Zeus

Ancient Greece’s most colossal temple stands beside the monumental arch that divided Athens between Greek hero Theseus and formidable Roman emperor Hadrian. (see Temple of Olympian Zeus)

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Ancient Olympia

Olympia is known for having been the site of the Olympic Games in classical times. The sanctuary consists of an unordered arrangement of various buildings. Enclosed within the temenos are the Temple of Hera and Temple of Zeus, the Pelopion and the area of the altar, where the sacrifices were made. The hippodrome and later stadium were also to the east. To the north of the sanctuary the Prytaneion and the Philippeion can be found, as well as the array of treasuries representing the various city states. The Metroon lies to the south of these treasuries, with the Echo Stoa to the East. To the south of the sanctuary is the South Stoa and the Bouleuterion, whereas the West side houses the Palaestra, the workshop of Pheidias, the Gymnasion and the Leonidaion. Olympia is also known for the gigantic ivory and gold statue of Zeus that used to stand there, sculpted by Pheidias, which was named one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World by Antipater of Sidon.

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Ancient Corinth

Corinth’s location, between the Peloponnese and mainland Greece, made it a rich and powerful trading centre from Mycenaean times onwards. Material wealth was accompanied by a reputation for wild and licentious lifestyles, including polygamy and orgiastic cults, which St Paul addressed with great concern in the biblical Book of Corinthians . After the 19th century, Corinth declined into a small, unattractive city. Its attraction resides in the extensive remains of the ancient glories, especially the 6th-century BC Temple of Apollo, and the Roman Agora and Odeon.

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Filopappos Hill

A green-gladed respite in the city centre, with a wonderful view and a mix of monuments that encompass ancient, Byzantine and modern Greek culture. (see Filopappos Hill)

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A Morning in Plaka
Early Morning

Hike up to the Acropolis first thing to beat the heat and the worst of the crowds. Then spend an hour or so admiring the temples.

Come down from the Acropolis and turn left onto the Dionisiou Areopagitiou Walkway . Your Acropolis ticket gives you free entry into the Theatre of Dionysus, where many of the great Classical dramas were first staged.

Head back out to the walkway and turn right on Makrigianni to visit the New Acropolis Museum . Next, head to Plateia Lysikratous, named after the unusual monument to the winner of a 335 BC choral competition.

Stop for a frappé in one of the leafy cafés overlooking Lysikratous – O Diogenous has the best view.

Late Morning

From the square, head up towards the charming 19th-century quarter of Anafiotika to explore its twisting alleys.

Leave by Prytaneiou, stopping in the quiet garden of the Byzantine Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and lighting a candle from its famed extra-holy flame.

From Prytaneiou, turn right on Mnisikleous and left on Kyrristou for a choice of either the tiny but delightful Museum of Greek Musical Instruments or the Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds . Finally, head back a block to O Platanos , for a hefty Greek lunch under a huge plane tree.

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A Day in Piraeus
Morning/Afternoon

From Athens, take the metro to Piraeus, then walk to the Archaeological Museum (see Archaeological Museum of Piraeus) and check out some of the ancient local finds.

Continue to Pasalimani and stop for a coffee at Café Freddo overlooking the water. Take the time for a stroll around the harbour to admire the top-notch boats.

For a relaxed, indulgent lunch call at Achinos , offering fantastic sea views; otherwise walk the seafront promenade of Akti Themistokleous for a reasonably priced informal feast of fresh fish at Margaro (see Margaro).

Evening

Take the metro to Neo Faliro, then negotiate a busy main road past the Peace and Friendship Stadium, one of Piraeus’s beachside venues that was used for the 2004 Olympic Games.

Continue south from the stadium to arrive at the pretty fishing harbour of Mikrolimano – less glitzy and more picturesque than the more central bays.

Here you’ll find a string of waterside seafood restaurants, the best-known of which is Jimmy and the Fish .

After dinner, either escape for a romantic nightcap on the pleasant Don Kihotis roof terrace (see Don Kihotis), or join the swelling crowds at Neon ), one of the café-bars with brash music and open-air seating on Akti Dilaveri.

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Aphrodite

Voluptuous Aphrodite was Artemis’s polar opposite – the temperamental goddess of love had dozens of affairs.

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Angistri

This tiny islet off Aegina is even more of an escape from it all. Quiet beaches, clear beautiful water, a handful of small hotels and fish tavernas, and not much else.

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Independence Day (25 Mar)

Full-on military parades with tanks, guns and battalions celebrate the date in 1821 when, after nearly 400 years of occupation, the Greek revolution successfully rose up against the Ottoman Empire.

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Where else to visit
Specialist Tours

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For the walkers
Get your walking shoes on and see the MOST amazing views and scenes
Filopappos Hill

Follow the winding paths to different monuments: two Byzantine churches, a Roman memorial and Athens’ old observatory. And, at the summit of this shady hill, extensive views over and beyond the city. (see Filopappos Hill)

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Kallidromiou and Strefi Hill

Kallidromiou is the heart of Exarcheia, especially on Saturdays, when the whole neighbourhood turns out for the open-air laiki (farmer’s market). Soak up the sights of the street and buy some fresh fruit before heading to nearby Strefi Hill (see Strefi Hill) for a healthy climb and bite to eat.

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Athens Tower

Greece’s tallest building; no observation deck, but great views if you’re visiting any of its companies.

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Filopappos Monument

Spectacular views directly across to the temples of the Acropolis or to Piraeus and the coast. (see Filopappos Monument)

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Where to stay
Where to crash after a hard day being a tourist
Accommodation Tips

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Acropolis Select

This is one of the best deals in town. For only a little more than most budget hotels, you get a stylish restaurant and lobby, and bright, comfortable rooms with room service, satellite TV, business amenities, and, if you ask, Acropolis views. Though not located in a tourist neighbourhood, it’s within an easy walk of most sights.

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Adrian

The Adrian offers rooms that are small, clean and serviceable, if somewhat sterile, in the heart of Plaka next to Hadrian’s Library. The rooms have small balconies and the roof garden has lovely views. The café-filled square below is a nice place to sit, but can get noisy at night.

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Amalia

Price and location (on Plateia Syntagma, directly across from the National Gardens) combine admirably. The rooms are comfortable, functional and, despite facing a noisy major road, surprisingly quiet.

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Polis Grand Hotel

Polis Grand Hotel, is situated in the heart of Athens, near Syntagma Square and Omonoia Square, in one of the most central spots of the town, with the major sights and public transfers within easy reach. Relax in the comfortable and cozy rooms or enjoy a chess game at the hotel lounge. Admire the works of art, taste delicious Mediterranean food and enjoy the spectacular view of the city from the Hotel’s Roof Garden, with the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill on the background.

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Where to eat
The best places to refuel
Dining in Athens

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Aristera-Dexia

From the gimmicky entrance (playing on the name, “left-right”) to the cheeky toilets, you’re in for a good time. But the real draw is the food. (see Aristera-Dexia)

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48 The Restaurant

With its polished concrete walls and floor, water garden and coloured lighting, 48 has become one of the trendiest restaurants in town.

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Achinos

Romantic split-level restaurant-bar built into a cliff overlooking the sea. Creative fish, meat and cheese mezes.

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Kuzina restaurant

A must for all foodies: Kuzina restaurant is Athens's best kept secret! Seriously delicious modern Greek food served in a stylish, buzzy restaurant.

Take a table on the pavement, inside the bar or on the charming terrace with the most beautiful view of Athens, the Acropolis and temple of Ifaistos.

Very good service - perfect for a special occasion - not cheap but still affordable.

Find it near the Acropolis in Monastraki - go early or book a table. The perfect place for a romantic evening after exploring the city. Highly recommended!

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Extra information
Everything else you will need to know for your trip
Shopping Tips

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Things to Avoid

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Banking and Communication

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Appendix
Where to look for the originals
Sources of Information

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