Plateia Syntagma is the centre of modern Athens ,crowned by the large, Neo-Classical Parliament building. Standing sentry outside are the evzones –soldiers marching solemnly back and forth in traditional short skirts and pompommed shoes. By Parliament, on the wide, tree-lined avenue of Vasilissis Sofias is Museum Row: many of Athens’ finest museums are here. Behind Syntagma is posh Kolonaki, home to ambassadors, models, movie stars and the fabulous designer boutiques that cater to them. This is the prime spot for shopping, people-watching and glamorous but pricey café-sitting. Rising above it all is Lykavittos Hill, topped by a famous outdoor theatre, and gorgeous cafés and restaurants with a view to die for.
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Concept cake shopping. This exceptionally chic patissier sells delectable pastel-hued macaroons, chocolates and desserts.
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Mid-Afternoon
Start at Plateia Syntagma a few minutes before the hour to see the changing of the guard in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Then head up Vasilissis Sofias to the Museum of Cycladic Art to ponder the mysterious prehistoric marble sculptures. Be sure to check out whatever temporary exhibition is on at the adjoining Stathatos Mansion – they are usually small but world-class shows.
Then it’s on to Plateia Kolonaki for a frappé and a pastry at one of the roadside cafés and some stellar people-watching. The parade of wealthy wives, pretty playboys and Greek starlets provides recompense for overpriced drinks – just sip slowly!
Late Afternoon
Afterwards, fan out from the square for some serious shopping or browsing of the shop windows and eyeing patrons at Folli Follie, Prasini and Elena Votsi , as well as familiar international stables such as Gucci, Armani and Versace.
Towards the end of the day, go to the funicular station at the foot of Lykavittos Hill. Though close to Plateia Kolonaki, the walk is quite steep, so if you’re feet are tired you can take the 060 minibus from the square or a two-minute taxi ride. From the hilltop at dusk, watch the sky turn violet over Athens, while enjoying a drink at the café, or a truly special meal at Orizontes restaurant (see Orizontes).
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As well as his quirky own-label tailoring, Markos imports an eclectic mix of items from both world-famous and lesser-known brands.
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In the gardens of an exquisite Neo-Classical mansion, this elegant bar and restaurant draws an attractive crowd.
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The Benaki is one of Greece’s preeminent museums, not only for its extensive and top-notch collection of prehistoric to 20th-century Greek art, but also because it’s a lovely place to be. Among its highlights are the re-creations of Ottoman-style sitting rooms in 18th-century northern Greek mansions, and sumptuous Byzantine shrines. The superb books and jewellery in the gift shop and the rooftop garden restaurant are destinations in themselves. (see Benaki Museum, Museums - Benaki Museum)
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Bettina’s impressive stock includes international labels alongside Greece’s own Angelos Frentzos and Sophia Kokosalaki.
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Posh and pricey, this Italian nouvelle cuisine restaurant is prime dining and has an admirable wine list.
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The museum’s 15,000 objects (only a fraction of which are displayed at any one time) date from the 3rd to the 19th century, chronicling the rise and decline of the great Byzantine Empire. There are priceless sculptures, icons and richly worked gold and silver religious trappings. The permanent collection is housed in a smart new two-level space built partially underground, which opened in summer 2004. (see Byzantine Museum, Museums - Byzantine Museum)
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The hottest drinking and socializing spot in town. Packed from mid-afternoon onwards at the weekends, when the beautiful people drop in.
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Summer or winter, rain or shine, this small pedestrianized section of street lined with tiny bars is always a hive of festivity and conviviality.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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Athens CarnivalFebruary and March are carnival months in Athens. Numerous events, both traditional and modern, celebrate the different regions of Greece and the city of Athens itself. Read more
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Synch FestivalGreek electronic fiesta Synch mixes live music, interactive media and art installations at the Benaki Museum and nearby Technopolis. Read more
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European Music DayEach summer solstice, members of the European Music Day network (aka Fête Européenne de la Musique) organise free concerts all around their cities. Athens stretches the event to cover three days,... Read more
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