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The formal name of this stadium is the Panathenaic, but it’s more commonly known as Kallimarmaro, meaning “beautiful marble”. Built in 330 BC for the Panathenaic games, it later fell into disuse. In 1895, George Averoff had it restored with fine Pentelic marble, and it hosted the first modern Olympics in 1896. In 2004, it provided the final circuit for the Olympic Marathon and also hosted the archery competition. (see Kallimarmaro Stadium)

The huge, shady National Gardens are an unexpected green refuge in parched central Athens. They were originally planted in 1839 as the Royal Garden of Queen Amalia, who had her horticulturalists bring in 15,000 domestic and exotic plants, many of which remain. The garden was opened to the public in 1923. Many statues dot the garden. It also has a small zoo, a duck pond and a playground. (see National Gardens)

The imposing building was constructed in 1842 as a palace for Otto, Greece’s first king after independence. Over the next 70 years, it suffered neglect and in 1923, during a housing shortage, it acted as a homeless shelter. After the return of parliamentary government in 1926, the building was gutted, renovated and reopened as a single-chamber council for parliament. Today it is the scene of debates that range from the hilariously surreal to the stultifyingly boring, viewable on state television via a live video link. Its library can be visited.

Syntagma station is as much museum as transport hub. When the city was busy excavating to extend the metro, archaeologists found thousands of priceless items on this site, which has been continuously occupied since Classical times. Many are displayed in the station, but the highlight is a glass wall overlooking the site, which includes. at least two cemeteries. (see Syntagma Metro Station)

On guard in front of Parliament are the famous evzones , soldiers in the traditional attire of the rebels who won the War of Independence. It’s hard to imagine fighting efficiently in this uniform: a short white skirt (with 400 pleats, symbolizing the years under Turkish rule), red cap, and red pompommed shoes. The changing of the guard is like a slow high-kick dance. Evzones are selected from the tallest and handsomest men in the mandatory Greek military service.

The Benaki is one of Greece’s preeminent museums, not only for its extensive and top-notch collection of prehistoric to 20th-century Greek art, but also because it’s a lovely place to be. Among its highlights are the re-creations of Ottoman-style sitting rooms in 18th-century northern Greek mansions, and sumptuous Byzantine shrines. The superb books and jewellery in the gift shop and the rooftop garden restaurant are destinations in themselves. (see Benaki Museum, Museums - Benaki Museum)

Some 2,000 years before the Parthenon, a mysterious civilization on the Cycladic islands created the prototypical Mediterranean marble sculptures: simple, elemental female forms. The figures still resonate today, famously influencing artists like Modigliani and Picasso. The Goulandris family, one of Greece’s oldest shipping and philanthropic dynasties, displays the world’s largest collection of Cycladic art in a beautifully restored Neo-Classical mansion. There are often exhibits by top contemporary Greek and international artists in the extra-swanky new wing. (see Museum of Cycladic Art, Museums - Museum of Cycladic Art)

The museum’s 15,000 objects (only a fraction of which are displayed at any one time) date from the 3rd to the 19th century, chronicling the rise and decline of the great Byzantine Empire. There are priceless sculptures, icons and richly worked gold and silver religious trappings. The permanent collection is housed in a smart new two-level space built partially underground, which opened in summer 2004. (see Byzantine Museum, Museums - Byzantine Museum)

The two huge floors telling the history of warfare in Greece from prehistoric to modern times might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but most will enjoy the Saroglos collection, including medieval suits of armour, three-musketeer-type duelling foils, and fabulous engraved Turkish scimitars. Outside, there are several fighter planes and tanks – visitors are allowed to climb up and take a look in the cockpits of most of them. (see War Museum)

Steep Lykavittos Hill juts high out of Kolonaki, and the church at its peak is visible for miles around. Every summer, the Lykavittos Festival hosts a variety of top musicians from around the world in the theatre close to the church; there’s nothing like watching Bob Dylan or Guru with the sun going down over Athens behind them (see Lykavittos Festival (Jun–Sep)). A smart caférestaurant nestles below the church. If you are very, very ambitious, walk up – otherwise, take the funicular from Aristipou.