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Most of the dishes on offer in an estiatorion are oven-baked meat and fish specialities, such as moussaka (layers of aubergine and minced meat) stifado (stew) and gemista (stuffed vegetables), which are often prepared in advance and served luke-warm. Deserts are normally limited to sweet pastries and fresh fruit.

Classic taverna fare is mezes (hors-d’oeuvres), which can be served hot or cold, plus freshly fried or grilled meat and fish dishes. In some establishments there is no menu, but waiters bring round trays laden with dishes on offer, so you can choose what you like the look of. There are no set courses, and plates tend to arrive in a steady, if somewhat random, stream.

A carnivore’s paradise, a psistaria specializes in spit-roasts and char-grilling (sta karvouna ) meats such as souvlaki (shish kebabs), kokoretsi (offal) and spit-roast lamb and chicken. Vegetarians are not entirely un-catered for, and can opt for an assemblage of basic side dishes: horiatiki salata (Greek salad), tzatziki (yoghurt and cucumber dip), saganaki (fried cheese) and tiganites patates (chips).

A psarotaverna specializes in freshly caught local fish such as barbouni (red mullet) and xifias (swordfish). They are normally barbecued and served with lemon and olive oil. Starters might include kalamarakia (baby squid), okhtapodhi (octopus) and garidhes (shrimps).

Taking its name from the strangely uplifting and highly intoxicating anise-flavoured spirit, ouzo, an ouzeri is the place to visit for relaxed drinking and chatting with friends over a range of mezes. Beer and wine are normally also available. Mezedopoleia offer more substantial mezes that, in their variety and quantity, can form quite a feast. Some of Athens’ best are around Omonia (see Ouzeries and Mezedopoleia).

While American-style fast-food chains have made little impression on local eating habits, Greeks are tremendous snackers and happy to satiate their peckishness with tiropites (cheese pies), spanakopites (spinach pies) and takeaway souvlaki (pitta bread filled with barbecued meat, tzatziki and freshly chopped onion and tomatoes). The Greek chain Everest does tasty, freshly filled toasted sandwiches.

The majority of Greeks adhere to the age-old tradition of a strong wake-me-up coffee for breakfast, then eat lunch around 3pm and dinner after 10pm. Most restaurants serve lunch between noon and 4pm and dinner from 8pm until midnight, though in touristy areas such as Plaka you’ll find that many establishments stay open all day.

Greeks regularly eat out with family and friends and tend to dress informally for such occasions. Although it’s best not to turn up in shorts, men are never required to wear ties, even in the smartest restaurants, though Greek women usually dress to impress on a night out.

Many tavernas, particularly in Plaka, lay on nighttime performances of traditional Greek music. They are mainly intended for tourists, but can be lively and entertaining nevertheless.

It is customary to leave a 10% tip if you have enjoyed your meal and were satisfied with the service. In the week preceding Easter and at Christmas restaurants add on an obligatory 18% to the bill for the waiters.