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All visitors to Thailand must be in possession of a passport valid for at least six months from the date of entry. Travelers from most Western countries are given a tourist visa on arrival that is valid for 30 days. For longer visits, it is better to apply for a 60-day visa from the Thai embassy in your home country. The visa must be used within three months of being issued. Non-immigrant visas lasting 90 days are also available if there is a good reason for an extended stay, such as education or business. A 60-day visa can be extended for 30 days, or a 30-day visa for 10 days, by applying to the Immigration Office (see Overstaying Your Visa ) and paying a fee. If you overstay your visa, there is a B500 fine per day. Since these visa regulations are subject to change, it is best to check the Thai Ministry of Foreign Affairs website.

The best time to visit Bangkok is between November and February, when clear skies are guaranteed and temperatures are a bit cooler than the rest of the year, generally below 80ºF (26.5ºC). However, hotel rates are generally higher and tourist attractions more crowded. The hot season from March to May is fine for a beach holiday but not so good for strenuous activities. The rainy season – between June and October – can be pleasant, and storms usually blow over quickly.

Light, loose-fitting clothes are ideal for Bangkok throughout the year. Long-sleeved shirts, a hat, and sunscreen are necessary for protection from the sun, and an umbrella is invaluable during the rains. Warm clothing is only needed in the hills of northern Thailand.

Inoculations are not compulsory in Thailand, and pharmacies in Bangkok are generally very well stocked, so only special medications need to be carried. Health or travel insurance with good cover is a must.

The duty-free allowance for all passengers arriving in Thailand is 200 cigarettes or nine ounces (250 g) of tobacco and a liter of wines or spirits.

Thailand is seven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, 12 hours ahead of US Eastern Standard Time, and three hours behind Australian Eastern Standard Time.

Thailand’s currency is the baht (B), which is divided into 100 satang. Coins come in denominations of B1, B2, B5, and B10. 25- and 50-satang coins are rarely seen. Notes are available for B20 (green), B50 (blue), B100 (red), B500 (purple), and B1,000 (brown).

Being a tonal language, Thai is not easy for Westerners, though learning a few key phrases will make you popular with locals. Fortunately, English is widely spoken in most tourist areas.

Driving yourself around Bangkok is not recommended. Those keen to rent a car will need an international driver’s license, though many rental companies will accept a valid national license.

The majority of travelers to Bangkok arrive by air, and its airport is served by over 80 airlines with direct flights from some of the world’s major cities. Thai Airways has an extensive network and budget airlines, such as Air Asia, operate flights within Thailand and to several destinations in Southeast Asia.

Booking well in advance can make big savings and is a necessity during the peak season between November and February, when all flights can be full. By booking online, you can check rates of various airlines and get the best deal.

Opened in late 2006, this is one of the world’s newest international airports with the world’s biggest terminal. International and domestic flights all operate from the same terminal, with arrivals on level 2 and departures on level 4. The airport is located around 16 miles (25 km) east of Bangkok.

As might be expected from such a super-modern facility, Suvarnabhumi is well equipped to cater for travelers, with plenty of shops, restaurants, lounges, and day rooms for passengers needing a rest during a long layover. Information counters operated by Airports of Thailand (AOT) are at the exit from levels 2 and 4.

Metered public taxis, with a “Taximeter” sign on the roof, are both convenient and affordable. The taxi assignment desks are on level 2 outside doors 4 and 9. A journey to downtown Bangkok costs about B250–300, including a B50 airport surcharge. The much-touted airport limousine service is far more expensive.

There are four air-conditioned bus routes from the airport, with a fixed fare of B150. Route AE1 goes to Silom Road and links with the Skytrain and Subway; route AE2 connects to Khao San Road; route AE3 reaches Nana district on Sukhumvit Road; and route AE4 goes to Hua Lampong Station.

A high-speed rail link is under construction that will take only 15 minutes to reach downtown. It is likely to be the preferred form of transport into town when it opens as planned in 2008.

Several international and local companies offer car hire from the transportation center near the airport.

With its well-developed transport system, Thailand fits well into overland itineraries that include visits to neighboring countries. Buses from Malaysia terminate at the Southern Bus Terminal, while those from Cambodia and Laos pull up at the Northern Bus Terminal.

The Skytrain is the most speedy and efficient way of getting around. There are two lines – the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Mo Chit to On Nut along Sukhumvit Road, and the Silom line, which runs from the National Stadium to Saphan Taksin. The lines intersect at Siam Square. If you plan to make several journeys, buy a stored-value card for B250 (10 trips), B300 (15 trips), or B540 (30 trips).

The first section of Bangkok’s new Subway system covers a loop from Hua Lampong Station to Bang Sue north of the center. It intersects with the Skytrain at four stations, and fares cost B14–36.

Bangkok has an extensive bus network with very cheap fares. Most routes operate from 4am to 10pm, while a few provide a 24-hour service. The main difficulty with buses is that they can get stuck in Bangkok’s notoriously heavy traffic, so an air-conditioned bus is a good option.

The Chao Phraya River and the few remaining canals provide commuter-style transport, a faster option to the horrendous traffic on Bangkok’s roads. A good way to get to Old City sights is on the Chao Phraya Express boat. There are several river ferries and also commuter boats that ply the canals.

Metered taxis are easy to find and relatively cheap, with a flag fare of B35 for the first 1.5 miles (2 km) and B5 for every 0.6 mile (1 km) after that. Insist on using the meter as it is cheaper than negotiating a fare.

For many visitors, a ride in a tuk-tuk is an essential part of the Thai experience, and it can be exciting weaving through the traffic in these open-sided three-wheelers. However, they are noisy and unprotected from pollution. Fares need to be negotiated before you start (see Taking a Tuk-Tuk Without Negotiating the Fare ).

Motorbike taxi riders in numbered vests who wait on the corners of important side roads are useful for routes not covered by other modes of transport. Fares are negotiable. While they are fast and can squeeze through traffic jams they can be dangerous – so hang on tight.

Given the problems with Bangkok’s traffic, it is best to visit just one area in a day, and explore it on foot. This is a particularly good way to reach the sights in the Old City and Chinatown, and also for the shopping districts of Siam Square and Silom Road.

Planning a journey in a crowded, unfamiliar city can be difficult, so many people opt for a guided tour. While such tours may be enjoyable and informative, they are also expensive and preclude encounters with local people that can lead to stimulating cultural exchanges.

Most budget travelers head for Khao San Road on the northern fringe of the Old City for rooms that cost less than B325 a night. Though it still offers the best range of budget accommodations (see Khao San Road Accommodations ), the area is gradually going upscale. Chinatown and Downtown also have a few cheap options.

Unless you dine in fancy restaurants, eating is not expensive in Bangkok. Costs can be kept to a minimum by eating at food stalls on street corners. Some of the best stalls specialize in one dish such as phat thai, which will fill you up for around B20. Food courts in malls also serve a tasty and cheap lunch.

Save money on your alcohol bill by sticking to local beers (Chang, Leo, Singha) and spirits (Mekong and Sang Som), which are much cheaper than imports. Look out for Happy Hours and two-for-one deals.

There are several free magazines for tourists, such as BK Magazine, which give reviews of new restaurants and bars, and listings of events in the city. They are distributed through hotels and tourist offices.

If you want to use your mobile phone while in Bangkok but avoid expensive international roaming rates, go to a mobile phone shop and buy a SIM card for a few dollars. This will provide you with a new number that will enable you to call at local rates, and the deal often includes a number of free calls.

Taking a stroll in a park is an enjoyable way to relax, get some exercise, and see how the Thais make the most of their leisure time. Near the center of Bangkok is Lumphini Park , which is large, but can get crowded in the mornings and evenings. For a more laid-back experience, visit the Rama IX Royal Park , which has lots of paths and well-landscaped gardens.

Apart from the main temples, such as Wat Phra Kaeo (see Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo ) and Wat Pho , there is no entrance fee to temple compounds in Thailand. These compounds are often a treasure trove of art and architecture, and resident monks are often keen to learn about their visitors from afar, so going to a temple can be a great way to learn about Thai culture and customs.

If you fancy pampering your body at a spa without the expensive price tag, and provided you can live without the luxurious surroundings and little extras like herbal teas and ambient music, then settle for a traditional Thai massage. A two-hour session should not cost more than B500, and will probably leave you feeling that you are floating on air.

To explore life on the Chao Phraya River without joining a guided tour, take the Chao Phraya Express from any pier heading north to Nonthaburi, and watch locals going about their business on boats and along the banks of the river. The round trip takes a couple of hours and costs less than B65.

Most banks are open between 8:30am and 3:30pm but branches in airports or department stores often stay open later. Big branches have a foreign exchange counter and can arrange international transfers.

ATM machines are easy to find in Bangkok. There are usually one or more units outside each bank branch, and they can also be found at gas stations and department stores. All offer an English language option and accept major credit and debit cards, but a service charge is applied.

The baht exchange rate fluctuates daily but the best rate is offered by banks. There is little need to bring traveler’s checks.

VISA and MasterCard credit and debit cards are accepted by all major banks, department stores (which can apply a hefty charge), travel agents, hotels, and many restaurants. Diners Club and American Express are not widely accepted.

Post office hours are normally 8:30am–4:30pm from Monday to Friday and 9am–noon on Saturday. Letters to or from Europe or the US usually take a week or more to arrive. For important documents use the Express Mail Service (EMS) or register the letter for an extra fee.

There are several types of public phone: some coin-or card-operated, some local or international. Phone cards are generally sold in convenience stores. For regular calls, it is easier to rent a mobile phone or buy a SIM card. Charges for making calls from your hotel can be steep.

The country code for Thailand is 66 and the code for Bangkok is 02. When making calls within Bangkok, dial 02 before the seven-digit number. To call abroad, dial the international access code 001, then country code. When phoning the UK, US, and much of Europe, the alternative prefix 008 offers a reduced rate and the code 009 accesses Voice-Over-Internet Protocol (VOIP). It is cheaper to call at night – rates are reduced by 20–30 percent between 9pm and 7am.

Broadband is now ubiquitous in Thailand so downloading information is usually very fast. There are Internet cafés all over the city, particularly in tourist and shopping areas like Khao San Road, Siam Square, and Silom Road, with rates averaging about a baht a minute. Many guest-houses and hotels offer Internet access, sometimes free to guests. Using a laptop is not so easy as few guesthouses have phone lines in rooms, and hotels’ service rates are high.

There are two English dailies – Bangkok Post and The Nation; both carry a mix of local and international news, as well as features and listings of events in daily supplements. Same-day issues of national newspapers from other countries, such as the Sun from the UK and USA Today are sold in some bookshops, though prices for these are steep.

There are no national emergency numbers but for help in an emergency, call the Tourist Police, who are conversant in English, and will take appropriate action. When reporting a crime, you will need to file a report at a police station. To report dishonest dealings by tour operators or shopkeepers, contact the Tourist Assistance Center.

Although Bangkok is relatively safe, it is wise to keep cash in a money belt and avoid wearing expensive jewelry. Watch out for pickpockets in crowded areas, such as Chatuchak Weekend Market .

Unfortunately, some Thais exploit their country’s reputation for hospitality to fleece tourists. Common scams involve tuk-tuk drivers, gem dealers, and independent tour guides. Con artists are inventive, so avoid getting drawn into conversation with unnaturally friendly Thais.

If you happen to lose your passport or get into trouble with the police, contact your embassy. They can issue replacement passports or offer legal assistance if necessary.

Thai hospitals are hygienic, efficient, and inexpensive, with a high ratio of doctors to patients. The Bumrungrad Hospital and Bangkok Nursing Home have high standards of health care. For minor ailments, local clinics are also reliable, and most staff speak essential English.

Pharmacies are generally well-stocked with medicines, including antibiotics, for which prescriptions are not necessary. Opening times are usually 9am–6pm, though in tourist areas like Silom and Sukhumvit, some places stay open until midnight.

As with general medical healthcare, dental treatment is comparatively much cheaper in Thailand than in the West. In fact this itself can be reason enough for a trip. Most dentists speak some English and are generally competent.

For temperate zone visitors, the heat and humidity can be a shock to the system. Avoid walking in the midday sun, wear a hat, use plenty of sunscreen, and carry a fan. Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration.

Though tap water in Bangkok is generally safe to drink, bottled water is safer still; it is also cheap and widely available. There is no problem with ice in restaurants, but it is best to avoid drinks with crushed ice that are sold at roadside stalls.

The Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT), the official government tourist board, has offices worldwide and its headquarters in Bangkok. Its website provides comprehensive coverage of destinations and events, and maps and brochures are available from its office. The Bangkok Tourist Bureau (BTB) is also a useful source of information and has booths in many of the city’s tourist areas.

Most government offices are open from 8:30am to 4:30pm, but many close for lunch between noon and 1pm. Tourist attractions tend to stay open from 9am to 5pm, with last tickets being sold until an hour prior to closing. Department stores generally open at 10am and close at 9pm or 10pm. On public holidays government offices, banks, and post offices are closed but most shops remain open.

New Year’s Day (Jan 1), Makha Bucha (Feb/Mar), Chakri Day (Apr 6), Songkran (Apr 13–15), Labor Day (May 1), Coronation Day (May 5), Visakha Bucha (May/Jun), Khao Phansa (Jul), Queen’s Birthday (Aug 12), Chulalongkorn Day (Oct 23), King’s Birthday (Dec 5), Constitution Day (Dec 10).

Unfortunately there is little provision for disabled travelers in Bangkok, with only a few top-end hotels offering wheelchair ramps and other facilities. The city streets, which are a headache for all pedestrians with their uneven pavements and potholes, are nothing short of a nightmare for disabled visitors.

The tolerant attitude to homosexuality, both male and female, makes Bangkok an attractive destination for gay and lesbian travelers. There are a lot of bars where the clientele is mostly gay (see Top 10 Gay Bars and Clubs ). However, public displays of affection are usually frowned upon.

You must be 18 years or over to buy alcohol in Thailand. Most nightclubs refuse entry to anyone under 20. The rules are strictly enforced, so do not forget to carry your passport or ID card.

For reviews of hotels and restaurants, plus information about Thai culture and festivals, visit www.bangkok.com. For information concerning visas and work permits go to www.thaivisa.com.

Upcoming events are publicized in newspapers, BK Magazine, and on www.whatsonwhen.com. For tickets to sporting events and music concerts, log on to www.thaiticketmaster.com.

It is easy to find books in English but the selection is often limited. Asia Books, Bookazine, and Kinokuniya have a wide range of books. Sections 1 and 27 of Chatuchak Weekend Market have a fascinating mix of old magazines and discounted art books.

Thais are devoted to the royal family and show utmost respect to the king, the queen, and their children. While they are generally tolerant of foreigners breaking cultural taboos, no such leniency is shown for disrespecting the monarchy. This includes acts that might seem inconsequential in the West, such as not standing to attention when the national anthem is played in cinemas.

When visiting a temple in Thailand, do not wear shorts or sleeveless shirts. In the case of Wat Phra Kaeo, this also includes sandals. People who are inappropriately dressed need to rent clothes to cover the offending parts or they are refused entry.

If you are dissatisfied with a Thai providing a service, the worst thing you can do is to raise your voice. Keep a “cool heart”, or jai yen in Thai, and use charm to obtain your objective.

Anyone caught in possession of, or trafficking in, illegal drugs is likely to face a long term in prison. Police make regular surprise raids on nightclubs, bars, and even guesthouses, conducting searches and taking random urine samples to identify drug users.

If you travel anywhere by tuk-tuk, negotiate the fare before you start or you may end up paying much more than you bargained for. Unfortunately tuk-tuk drivers have a bad reputation for demanding an outrageous fee from passengers. To avoid this, ask someone in your guesthouse or hotel the approximate fare for the journey you plan to make.

While the go-go bars on Patpong are generally honest in their dealings, many upstairs bars advertise all kinds of sexual antics on stage but omit to state the prices or cover charge. After a couple of drinks, customers are presented with a bill for an extortionate amount and are not allowed to leave until they pay up. The simple solution is not to go upstairs.

In Bangkok’s tourist areas a Thai might attempt to befriend you. Unfortunately, once in his confidence, he will offer to take you shopping for gems or souvenirs and pressure you into buying something, for which he will receive a commission. Be extremely wary of such “helpful” people.

Selling fake or inferior quality gems to foreigners is one of the best-known and highly developed scams in Thailand, yet tourists continue to be cheated every day by the clever techniques used by hustlers. Unless you are an expert in identifying genuine gems, the best advice is not to be tempted by any mention of a good deal in gems.

Visitors to Thailand often want to stay longer than initially planned. To do so simply go to the immigration office to extend your visa, or else you will have to pay a fine of B500 per day.

VISA and MasterCard are accepted in all major stores and boutiques, though several stores add on a surcharge which can be up to 5 percent of the purchase value. However, when shopping at street stalls and markets, all transactions must be in cash.

The massive and ultra-modern shopping malls in Siam Square, Silom, and Sukhumvit are like small cities, containing department stores, food courts, bowling alleys, designer boutiques, and skating rinks.

Shopping in markets and at street stalls combines the opportunity to pick up bargains with cultural interaction. The best markets for textiles or ready-made clothes are Chatuchak, Phahurat, and Pratunam (see Pratunam Market ), while street stalls in Khao San Road, Patpong, and Sukhumvit Road are good for souvenirs.

Thais have a knack of producing excellent copies of anything from branded watches to designer clothes and CDs at a fraction of the cost of the original. Such breaches of copyright can result in occasional police raids that momentarily scare off vendors. As customs officials are entitled to seize fake goods, you just may return home empty-handed.

Prices are fixed in shopping malls and boutiques, but bargaining is expected in markets and at street stalls, where vendors quote a price that may be up to double the object’s value. Begin by offering a figure less than what you are prepared to pay and gradually increase the offer until a deal is struck. If all else fails, walking away may persuade a vendor to drop the price.

Thailand is the main outlet for antiques from across Southeast Asia. Unfortunately, many of the items available will have been stolen from temples in Burma and Cambodia. Occasionally, imitation antiques are passed off as the real thing. If you buy genuine antiques or Buddha images, you will need an export permit from the Fine Arts Department. The seller should help to arrange it but can take several days to process.

Thai handicrafts make excellent gifts and souvenirs. These are widely available in Bangkok at markets such as Chatuchak and shops like Narayana Phand . Items on offer include clothes and bags made of silk and cotton, basketware, lacquerware, ceramics, wall hangings, and woodcarvings.

Attractive Thai gold and silver jewelry is of a high standard. The small but upscale Peninsula Plaza is best for jewelry shops. Thailand is also known for its gems, particularly rubies and sapphires. However, beware of gem scams (see Buying Gems ).

Cheap cloth and labor make tailor-made clothes an attractive proposition to Westerners. But cheap prices can mean inferior quality. Go to reputed tailors such as Embassy Fashion House. They can copy a garment or a picture of the style you want and measure you to get the perfect fit.

It is a good idea to book your hotel room well in advance of your visit, especially if the hotel in question is highly rated, and even more so during the high season (Nov–Feb) or during major festivals. However, only a few budget hotels and guesthouses will accept advance booking; for most, it is simply a matter of first come, first served.

Hotel rates hit a peak during the cool season (Nov–Feb), when many establishments operate at full occupancy. For the rest of the year, it is worth enquiring about discounts, especially if you plan to stay several nights. Some budget hotels and guesthouses also offer competitive monthly rates.

In Bangkok, five-star accommodation can cost as little as a mid-range hotel in Europe or the US. For your money, you can expect a large room with a decent view, luxurious furnishings and decor, plenty of on-site restaurants and bars, and attentive service (see Luxury Hotels ).

Mid-range hotels offer all the basic comforts like air-conditioned rooms, bathrooms with hot water, and TVs, but with-out the luxurious touches and elegance of top-end hotels. Within this price range, it is worth checking out the rapidly growing number of boutique hotels that offer a more personal touch and unique character, often missing even in top-end hotels (see Boutique Hotels ).

With its cheap cost of living, Bangkok attracts a constant stream of budget tourists, mostly to Khao San Road, the “backpackers’ ghetto.” A typical budget room will be small, often without windows, with a bed, a fan, paper-thin walls, and shared-bathroom facilities (see Budget Hotels ).

You can eat any time of the day in Bangkok. Though most Thais have breakfast, lunch, and dinner at regular hours, portions are not large so they often nibble on other snacks throughout the day. Since most Thai food has a good nutritional balance, such indulgence is not fattening.

Eat in fancy restaurants, at street stalls, and everywhere in between. While only a few restaurants are expensive, some of Bangkok’s best food can be found at street stalls, so be adventurous and try everything.

Thai food is eaten with a spoon and fork. Use the fork to push rice and other food onto the spoon, and the spoon to carry it to your mouth. Since all Thai food preparation calls for bite-sized pieces of meat or vegetables, a knife is unnecessary. Most noodle dishes are eaten with chopsticks and a soup spoon. When eating with a group of people, take a spoonful at a time from communal dishes, eat it mixed with the rice on your plate, and then go back for more.

Thais wear whatever they feel like when they eat out. The only exceptions to this are a few restaurants which encourage a sense of exclusivity by insisting on “smart casual” dress. This means that sandals, shorts, and sleeveless shirts are not permitted, but patrons need not wear a jacket or tie.