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The Christmas season is officially under way when local artisans set up shop outside the Cathedral for the annual Christmas fair. Well worth a visit if only to peruse the row upon row of caganers, miniature figures squatting to fer caca (take a poop). Uniquely Catalan, the caganers are usually hidden in the back of nativity scenes. This unusual celebration of the scatological also appears in other Christmas traditions.

Truites (omlettes) rule here, from the classic (Spanish) to the inventive (garlic and asparagus). The owners claim to have used five million eggs in just over 30 years.

Settle in to a leatherette seat at this groovy 1960s retro diner and gorge on hefty truites (omelettes) with all manner of fillings, from chicken and bechamel to fried bread, cheese and tomato. For dessert, the adventurous dig into an array of sweet truites , including a fluffy omelette stuffed with chunks of fried, sweetened apples and drizzled in sweet syrup. See Restaurants & Tapas Bars.

The Fonda Biayna has been in operation since the 1820s. Wood-beamed ceilings and antique furniture imbue it with rustic flair. The inn’s most famous guest was Picasso, who arrived here by mule en route to Paris (with paintings in tow).

Dine on fine Catalan cuisine under a Modernista mosaic and dark-wood ceiling by Domènech i Montaner. Try the filet of sole flavoured with orange.

Established over 150 years ago, Fonda Europa was the first in a line of successful Catalan restaurants. Ample portions include pig’s trotters.

By far the best food in the Poble Espanyol.

Below the cascades and fountains that splash down from the regal Palau Nacional is the Magic Fountain, designed by Carles Buigas for the International Exhibition of 1929. As darkness descends, countless jets of water are choreographed in a mesmerizing sound and light show. When the water meets in a single jet it can soar to 15m (50ft). The extravagant finale is often accompanied by a recording of Freddie Mercury and Montserrat Caballé singing the anthem Barcelona as the fountain fades from pink to green and back to white before silently and gracefully disappearing.