Though hard to imagine today , there was a time when Barcelona was just a small Roman village (named Barcino) encircled by protective stone walls. Over the centuries, the village grew, culminating in a building boom in the 14th and 15th centuries. The Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), a beautifully preserved neighbourhood of Gothic buildings, medieval places (squares) and atmospheric alleys, exists today as a splendid reminder of Barcelona’s medieval heyday. The web of ancient, treasure-filled streets in this compact area is best explored by aimless wandering. The barrio’s centrepiece – and its religious and social heart – is the 13th-century Cathedral and surrounding complex of period buildings. Nearby, the stately Plaça del Rei (Perfect Squares), is ringed by some of the best preserved medieval buildings in the area. Extending east of the Barri Gòtic is the ancient barrio of La Ribera, which includes El Born (El Born). Here, the lovely Carrer Montcada is lined with medieval palaces – five of which house the must-see Museu Picasso.
For sights & attractions on La Rambla see La Rambla . For more on Barri Gòtic squares see Perfect Squares . For more museums see Museums .-
Discover the youthful repertoire of one of the 20th-century’s most revered artists. See Museu Picasso.
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Housed in a pair of adjoining medieval palaces, the Textile and Fashion Museum traces the evolution of clothing and textiles from Egyptian fabrics to Baroque tapestries to haute couture designs. Innovative temporary exhibits explore the fashions of yesterday and today, occasionally showcasing creative new talent. The small but ultra-cool museum shop sells funky clothes, accessories and design items, while the Tèxtil Cafè beckons with outdoor tables in a shady courtyard.
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Tucked into an alley off Carrer Ferran, this small, dimly-lit, old-style bar plays tunes by Edith Piaf (including the famous Padam , of course) and her contemporaries.
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The city’s most prestigious concert hall is a monument to both la musica Catalana and to Modernisme . See Palau de la Música Catalana.
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This square boasts one of the largest intact sections of Barcelona’s Roman walls.
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Sunlight filters through tall trees in this hidden oasis of calm. The plaça is home to the Museu del Calçat (Top 10 Quirky Museums).
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The site of the Plaça de Sant Jaume (see Perfect Squares) was once the nucleus of Roman Barcino. With these roots, it seems fitting that the square has become home to Barcelona’s two most important government buildings: the Palau de la Generalitat (seat of the Catalan government) and the Ajuntament (city hall). Look for the detailed carved relief of Sant Jordi, Catalonia’s patron saint, on the 15th–century Generalitat façade. Within is the lovely 15th–century Capella de Sant Jordi (Capella de Sant Jordi), designed by architect Marc Safont. A highlight of the Gothic Ajuntament is the lavish red-and-gold Saló de Cent, where the Council of One Hundred ruled the city from 1372 to 1714. Also of note is the Pati dels Tarongers, a graceful patio with orange trees.
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Late 19th–century elegance meets sangria–swilling café society in the arcaded Plaça Reial, one of Barcelona’s most emblematic and entertaining squares. The plaça is planted with towering palm trees and encircled by stately, 19th–century buildings. The Modernista lampposts were designed by a young Gaudí in 1879. At the square’s centre is a wrought–iron fountain representing the Three Graces. The square is the best place to start a big night out, with a cluster of restaurants, bars and cafés that draw the hoi polloi – including all sorts of shady pickpockets.
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A cool local joint playing DJ-spun funky R&B tunes on Sundays, and everything from house to fusion jazz the rest of the week.
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Morning
Starting at the Jaume I metro, enter the ancient walled city of Barcino on C/Llibreteria, once the main road to and from Rome. Head right up C/Veguer to Plaça del Rei (Perfect Squares) and descend into a fascinating underground web of Roman walls and waterways via the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat (Roman Barcelona). Also visible here are the remains of a 2nd-century workshop and an ancient bodega, a source of much Roman merrymaking. Back above ground, pause for a cafè sol at the terrace of Café-Bar L’Antiquari (Cafés & Light Eats) and bask in Barcelona’s Gothic glory days. Stroll towards the Cathedral’s spires along C/de la Pietat. Turn right onto C/Bisbe, once a Roman thoroughfare, then right again on Av de la Catedral to visit the Pia Almoina (Pia Almoina & Museu Diocesà), where you can view a section of the Roman aqueduct and ride a glass elevator past Roman wall remains. Backtrack to Plaça Nova, once the Roman gateway to Barcino, cross the plaça and continue along C/Arcs.
Afternoon
Stop for lunch at the Reial Cercle Artístic, a late 19th-century artists’ society. Ignore the “members only” sign; the restaurant is open to the public, and its tranquil balcony terrace provides a welcome breather from the crowds far below. After lunch, head up Av del Portal de l’Àngel and turn left onto C/Canuda to Plaça de la Vila de Madrid (Plaça de la Vila de Madrid). The square is a fitting end to your Roman ramble, for here are the necropolis remains, where Romans came to rest.
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