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Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, this heady brew of architectural wizardry includes trencadís tiling, a serpentine bench, fairy-tale pavilions, Gothic archways, and the columned Sala Hipóstila (originally intended as a market hall). In true Gaudí style, playfulness and symbolism pervade every aspect of the park. The Casa-Museu Gaudí, where Gaudí lived for 20 years, is dedicated to the architect’s life.
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You might wonder exactly what this box-like pavilion of stone, marble, onyx and glass is doing bang in the middle of Montjuïc’s monumental architecture. Years ahead of its time, this surprisingly rationalist gem represents Germany’s contribution to the 1929 Exhibition. Built by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (1886– 1969), the elegant pavilion was soon demolished, only to be reconstructed in 1986. Inside, the elegant sculpture Morning by Georg Kolbe (1877–1947) is reflected in a small lake.
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The buzzy Passeig del Born culminates in Plaça Comercial, an inviting square dotted with cafés and bars. It faces the 19th-century Born Market (El born), which will re-open in 2007 as a cultural centre and exhibition space.
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Barcelona’s nerve centre is the huge Plaça de Catalunya, a lively hub from which all the city’s activity seems to radiate. This square is most visitors first real glimpse of Barcelona. The airport bus and train stops here, as do RENFE trains and countless metro and bus lines. The square’s commercial swagger is evident all around, headed by Spain’s omnipresent department store, El Corte Inglés (Plaça de Catalunya). Pigeons flutter chaotically in the square’s centre, lively Peruvian bands play to booming sound systems and hordes of travellers – from backpackers to tour groups – meander about. To add to the melting pot, the square is allegedly home to 25 people (mostly homeless immigrants).
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Mere steps from La Rambla (La Rambla) is this spacious plaça , graced with the remains of a Roman necropolis. A remnant of Roman Barcino, the square sat just beyond the boundaries of the walled Roman city. A row of unadorned 2nd–4th-century AD tombs were discovered here in 1957. The complete remains are open to the public.
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The progressive, bohemian area of Gràcia, a former village annexed by Barcelona in 1897, still exudes a small-town ambience, where socializing with the neighbours means heading for the nearest plaça. Topping the list is this atmospheric square, with an impressive clock tower rising out of its centre. Bustling outdoor cafés draw buskers and a sociable crowd.
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The site of the Plaça de Sant Jaume (see Perfect Squares) was once the nucleus of Roman Barcino. With these roots, it seems fitting that the square has become home to Barcelona’s two most important government buildings: the Palau de la Generalitat (seat of the Catalan government) and the Ajuntament (city hall). Look for the detailed carved relief of Sant Jordi, Catalonia’s patron saint, on the 15th–century Generalitat façade. Within is the lovely 15th–century Capella de Sant Jordi (Capella de Sant Jordi), designed by architect Marc Safont. A highlight of the Gothic Ajuntament is the lavish red-and-gold Saló de Cent, where the Council of One Hundred ruled the city from 1372 to 1714. Also of note is the Pati dels Tarongers, a graceful patio with orange trees.
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Weighty with power and history, this is the administrative heart of modern-day Barcelona. The plaça is flanked by the city’s two key government buildings, the stately Palau de la Generalitat and the 15th-century Ajuntament. See Plaça de Sant Jaume.
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Old-world charm meets café culture in the Barri Gòtic’s leafy Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol and Plaça del Pi, named after the pine trees (pi , in Catalan) that shade its nooks and crannies. The lovely Gothic church of Santa Maria del Pi (Charming Churches & Chapels) rises between the two squares.
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The magnificent Església de Santa Maria del Mar (Cocktail & Conversation Spots) imbues its namesake plaça , in the El Born district, with a certain spiritual calm. Bask in its Gothic ambience, people watch, and soak up the sun at one of the outdoor terrace cafés.
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