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Space and light are omnipresent in the walkways between floors. Look through the glass panels onto the Plaça dels Àngels for myriad images before you even enter the gallery spaces.

The raison d’etre of MACBA is this flexible area showing the best in contemporary art. Past exhibitions have included Zush and acclaimed painter Dieter Roth.

The permanent collection comprises over 2000 – mostly European – modern artworks, 10 per cent of which are on show at any one time. All major contemporary artistic trends are represented. This work by Eduardo Arranz Bravo is titled Homea (1974).

American architect Richard Meier’s stark, white, geometrical façade makes a startling impression against the backdrop of this dilapidated working-class neighbourhood. Hundreds of panes of glass reflect the skateboarders who gather here daily.

On the ground floor, several tables are set out with jigsaw puzzles. The puzzles, which feature photos taken in neighbouring flats, give an intriguing glimpse of life in the nearby tenement buildings.

One of the only pieces of art on permanent display is Antoni Tàpies’ deconstructed bed (1992–3), with its bedding flung across the wall in disarray. Its presence to the right of the main entrance underlines Tàpies’ importance as a key player in the world of Catalan modern art.

Pleasant and unusual features of MACBA are the white leather sofas between the galleries. Usually next to a shelf of relevant books and a set of headphones, these spaces provide the perfect resting spot to contemplate – and learn more about – the art.

This courtyard off Carrer Montalegre forms part of the neighbouring CCCB. An ultra-modern prismatic screen provides a mirror reflecting the 18th-century patio – a magical juxtaposition of different architectural styles.

Unlike MACBA, exhibitions at the CCCB tend to be more theme based than artist specific. Home to both a festival of cinema shorts (Sep) and the Sònar techno festival (Jun), the CCCB always manages to be at the forefront of the latest cultural trend.

The contrast between the modern MACBA, the new University building, the Tuscan-style CCCB and the 19th-century mock-Romanesque church make this square one of the most enchanting in the city. It is home to the terrace restaurants of MACBA and CCCB.