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Although Francisco Godia (1921–90) was best known for his prowess behind the wheel – notably as an F1 racing driver – his passions extended to the art world. His once private collection now forms this museum and encompasses a range of art from medieval times to the 20th-century from Jaume Huguet’s altarpiece St Mary Magdalene (c. 1445) to a range of Spanish ceramics and works by 17th-century fresco-painter Luca Giardano.
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Paintings and sculptures by Antoni Tàpies (b. 1923), Catalonia’s foremost living artist, are housed in this early Modernista building (Modernista Buildings). For a glimpse of what awaits inside, look up: crowning the museum is the artist’s eye-catching wire sculpture Cloud & Chair (1990). The collection of over 300 pieces covers Tàpies’ whole range of work, including impressive abstract pieces such as Grey Ochre on Brown (1962). Temporary exhibitions are also held here, with past shows by Mario Herz, Hans Hacke and Craigie Horsfield.
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It’s almost worth feigning illness to be admitted to this fully functioning hospital, which was built in two stages from 1905 by Domènech i Montaner and his son. A tribute to Modernisme – and Domènech’s answer to Gaudí’s Sagrada Família – the sumptuous design comprises eight pavilions and various other buildings linked by underground tunnels. The pavilions, each different, recall the history of Catalonia with murals, mosaics and sculptures. Interlacing the buildings are gardens creating beautiful outdoor oases, where patients can recuperate. The courtyards and gardens are open to visitors.
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A daring, surreal fantasyland, and Gaudí’s most remarkable civic work (La Pedrera).
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At the heart of the city’s Quadrat d’Or (Golden Square) lies this stunning block of houses. Literally “the block of discord”, the Mansana de la Discòrdia is so-called because of the dramatic contrast of its three flagship buildings. Built between 1900 and 1907 by the three Modernista greats, rival architects Gaudí, Domènech i Montaner and Puig i Cadafalch, the buildings were commissioned by competing bourgeois families. Domènech is represented by the ornate Casa Lleó Morera (Modernista Buildings); Puig makes his mark with the Gothic-inspired Casa Amatller (Modernista Buildings); and Gaudí flaunts his architectural prowess with Casa Battló (Modernista Buildings). All boast superb interiors – sadly closed to the public – with the exception of Casa Battló. The lesser-known houses at Nos. 37 and 39 add to the overall splendour of the block. The Perfume Museum at No. 39 is heaven for scent-lovers (Top 10 quirky Museums/Monuments).
Casa Lléo Morera, Mansana de la Discòrdia
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Spain’s most important Egyptology museum houses more than 350 exhibits from over 3,000 years of Ancient Egypt. Exhibits include terracotta figures, human and animal mummies, and a bust of the lion goddess Sekhmet (700–300 BC).
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Designed by Puig i Cadafalch (1901), this palace is a fine example of the Neo-Gothic style in Modernista architecture. A magical, white façade is broken up by engravings and two towers. Of note are the decorative sculptures by Modernista sculptor Eusebi Arnau. The palace belongs to the Centre Cultural de la Caixa and, unfortunately, is closed at the moment; it is, however, worth a visit to see the outside alone.
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This elegant extension of the better-known Rambla is a more up-market version. Lined with trees that form a leafy green tunnel in summer, it boasts scores of pretty façades and shops, including the Modernista Farmàcia Bolos (No. 77). The avenue teems with terrace bars and cafés, which are ideal for people-watching. (Best Shopping Areas).
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Gaudí’s wizardry culminated in this enchanting, wild, unconventional temple, which dominates the city skyline (Sagrada Família).
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Until 1958, this was the only university in Barcelona – today it is one of six. The graceful building (1861–1889) occupies two blocks of the Eixample and has a distinct air of academia. The interior gardens with their fountains and patios make for a cool, shady hideaway on hot afternoons.
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