The Modernista Route
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Morning
Pop into the decrepit chess bar El Pato Loco (cnr Diputació & Aribau) to get a sepia picture of Barcelona that hasn’t changed for a century. Wake up with a cafè solo and watch the old men playing speed-chess, then stroll around the gardens of the Universitat. Head east along Gran Via past the elegant Palace Barcelona Hotel (Luxury Hotels), and right down C/Bruc for your first real taste of Catalan Art Nouveau, with Gaudí’s Casa Calvet (After-Dark Venues) on C/Casp. Turn right onto C/Casp and walk three blocks west to the majestic Pg de Gràcia; then go right again three blocks to the impressive buildings known as the Mansana de la Discòrdia (Mansana de la Discòrdia) and the Perfume Museum (Top 10 Quirky Museums/Monuments). Sniff around Regia perfume shop (Design Shops) before continuing north to marvel at Gaudí’s La Pedrera (La Pedrera). Feeling peckish? Stop at Tragaluz on Ptge de la Concepció (After-Dark Venues). The set menu is an economical way to experience this glitterati hang-out.
Afternoon
After lunch, head north on Pg de Gràcia, turn right along Diagonal, taking in the fairy-tale Casa de les Punxes at No. 416 (Casa de les Punxes (Casa Terrades)). Walk along Diagonal, making a detour left at Pg Sant Joan to see Palau Macaya at No. 108. Then stroll along C/Mallorca to the Sagrada Família (Sagrada Família). Here you can take in the Nativity Façade and rest weary legs in the Plaça de Gaudí before climbing the bell towers for a breathtaking view of the city.
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