DK Travel : Barcelona : Eixample

If the old town is the heart of Barcelona and the green mountains of Tibidabo and Montjuïc the lungs, the Eixample is the city’s nervous system – its economic and commercial core. The area began to take shape in 1860 when the city was permitted to expand beyond the medieval walls (Stages in Barcelona's History). Its design, based on plans by Catalan engineer Ildefons Cerdà, comprises hundreds of symmetrical grid-like squares. Construction continued into the 20th century at a time when Barcelona’s elite was patronizing the city’s most daring architects. Modernisme was flourishing and the area became home to the cream of Barcelona’s Modernista architecture, with myriad elegant façades and balconies. Today, a wealth of enchanting cafés, funky design shops, gourmet restaurants and hip bars and clubs draws the professional crowd, which has adopted the neighbourhood as its own.

For more on Modernista architecture Modernista Buildings For more on Antoni Gaudí see Antoni Gaudí

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La Fira

Decked out in vintage fair-ground memorabilia, this striking bar rates high on novelty factor. Order a cuba libre while swaying in a swing. Lively atmosphere, unique setting.
La Flauta

An economical, any-time-of day option serving hundreds of types of flauta (thin baguettes).
La Pedrera

A daring, surreal fantasyland, and Gaudí’s most remarkable civic work (La Pedrera).
La Semproniana

Set in an old printworks, this place serves food that’s a cross between Catalan and nouvelle cuisine – with a sense of playfulness. Try the black pudding lasagne.
La Table du Pain

A great place for an economical breakfast. Delicious cup-cakes and muffins served with home-made jam and butter.
Laie Llibreria Cafè

A cultural meeting place with a lively atmosphere, airy terrace and foreign newspapers. There’s an excellent set lunch and live jazz (Mar–May: Tue).
Les Gens que j’Aime

The ideal place to have a drink, to the accompaniment of soft music, after walking around Paseo de Gràcia and Rambla Catalunya.
Luz de Gas

A classic late-night watering hole, this half concert hall, half bar has live music nightly – from blues to jazz and soul.
L’Olivé

An unassuming, family-style restaurant with excellent, well-priced regional cuisine. Reputedly the best place to eat that Catalan speciality pig’s trotter. The broad bean salad with mint is recommended.
Mansana de la Discòrdia

At the heart of the city’s Quadrat d’Or (Golden Square) lies this stunning block of houses. Literally “the block of discord”, the Mansana de la Discòrdia is so-called because of the dramatic contrast of its three flagship buildings. Built between 1900 and 1907 by the three Modernista greats, rival architects Gaudí, Domènech i Montaner and Puig i Cadafalch, the buildings were commissioned by competing bourgeois families. Domènech is represented by the ornate Casa Lleó Morera (Modernista Buildings); Puig makes his mark with the Gothic-inspired Casa Amatller (Modernista Buildings); and Gaudí flaunts his architectural prowess with Casa Battló (Modernista Buildings). All boast superb interiors – sadly closed to the public – with the exception of Casa Battló. The lesser-known houses at Nos. 37 and 39 add to the overall splendour of the block. The Perfume Museum at No. 39 is heaven for scent-lovers (Top 10 quirky Museums/Monuments).

Casa Lléo Morera, Mansana de la Discòrdia

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €10
- €10–20
- €20–30
- over €30