DK Travel : Barcelona : Eixample

If the old town is the heart of Barcelona and the green mountains of Tibidabo and Montjuïc the lungs, the Eixample is the city’s nervous system – its economic and commercial core. The area began to take shape in 1860 when the city was permitted to expand beyond the medieval walls (Stages in Barcelona's History). Its design, based on plans by Catalan engineer Ildefons Cerdà, comprises hundreds of symmetrical grid-like squares. Construction continued into the 20th century at a time when Barcelona’s elite was patronizing the city’s most daring architects. Modernisme was flourishing and the area became home to the cream of Barcelona’s Modernista architecture, with myriad elegant façades and balconies. Today, a wealth of enchanting cafés, funky design shops, gourmet restaurants and hip bars and clubs draws the professional crowd, which has adopted the neighbourhood as its own.

For more on Modernista architecture Modernista Buildings For more on Antoni Gaudí see Antoni Gaudí

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Rambla de Catalunya

This elegant extension of the better-known Rambla is a more up-market version. Lined with trees that form a leafy green tunnel in summer, it boasts scores of pretty façades and shops, including the Modernista Farmàcia Bolos (No. 77). The avenue teems with terrace bars and cafés, which are ideal for people-watching. (Best Shopping Areas).
Regia

The biggest perfume shop in the city has more than a thousand scents, including all the leading brands and other surprises. Also home to the Perfume Museum (Top 10 Quirky museums/Monuments).
Sadur

The owner designs and sells her own leather accessories: wallets, bags and a few gifts. Classy designs are well made and well priced.
Sagrada Família

Gaudí’s wizardry culminated in this enchanting, wild, unconventional temple, which dominates the city skyline (Sagrada Família).
Satanassa

A mixed crowd – from drag queens to students – congregates at this small club/bar. The music is eclectic, the decor wonderfully tacky, with kitsch erotic statues.
The Modernista Route

Morning

Pop into the decrepit chess bar El Pato Loco (cnr Diputació & Aribau) to get a sepia picture of Barcelona that hasn’t changed for a century. Wake up with a cafè solo and watch the old men playing speed-chess, then stroll around the gardens of the Universitat. Head east along Gran Via past the elegant Palace Barcelona Hotel (Luxury Hotels), and right down C/Bruc for your first real taste of Catalan Art Nouveau, with Gaudí’s Casa Calvet (After-Dark Venues) on C/Casp. Turn right onto C/Casp and walk three blocks west to the majestic Pg de Gràcia; then go right again three blocks to the impressive buildings known as the Mansana de la Discòrdia (Mansana de la Discòrdia) and the Perfume Museum (Top 10 Quirky Museums/Monuments). Sniff around Regia perfume shop (Design Shops) before continuing north to marvel at Gaudí’s La Pedrera (La Pedrera). Feeling peckish? Stop at Tragaluz on Ptge de la Concepció (After-Dark Venues). The set menu is an economical way to experience this glitterati hang-out.

Afternoon

After lunch, head north on Pg de Gràcia, turn right along Diagonal, taking in the fairy-tale Casa de les Punxes at No. 416 (Casa de les Punxes (Casa Terrades)). Walk along Diagonal, making a detour left at Pg Sant Joan to see Palau Macaya at No. 108. Then stroll along C/Mallorca to the Sagrada Família (Sagrada Família). Here you can take in the Nativity Façade and rest weary legs in the Plaça de Gaudí before climbing the bell towers for a breathtaking view of the city.
Tragaluz

The who’s who of Barcelona wine and dine in this design-conscious, three-floored restaurant. Imaginative Mediterranean menu.
Tragarapid

This newly-opened spot is one of the most chic cafés in town. Up-market tapas and coffee served with style.
Universitat de Barcelona

Until 1958, this was the only university in Barcelona – today it is one of six. The graceful building (1861–1889) occupies two blocks of the Eixample and has a distinct air of academia. The interior gardens with their fountains and patios make for a cool, shady hideaway on hot afternoons.
Velvet

Large, popular and populist disco bar with lavish decor, luxury fittings and music ranging from Elvis to Abba.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €10
- €10–20
- €20–30
- over €30