The sleek, shiny, white walls of the Museu d’Art Contemporani (MACBA) juxtapose the decrepit, ramshackle tenement buildings; Asian grocery stores sell herbs and spices next to what were once the most decadent brothels in Europe; and smoky, decades-old bars share dark, narrow streets with high-ceilinged art galleries showcasing video installations. The old-town barrio of El Raval is a traditional working-class neighbourhood in flux. Over the last decade it has been undergoing an enthusiastic urban renewal, led by the arrival of the MACBA. The barrio now even has its very own Rambla, a new pedestrian street called La Rambla del Raval. Not surprisingly, all of this has sparked a real-estate boom, with renovated old-fashioned flats now commanding top-tier prices and acting as a magnet to the city’s young, savvy crowd.
For sights & attractions on La Rambla see La Rambla For more on Antoni Gaudí see Antoni Gaudí-
Morning
Start your ramble mid-morning by perusing the innovative temporary art exhibits at the CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània & Foment de les Arts Decoratives). Here the two world’s have meshed harmoniously. The eye-catching blend of old-meets-new in this cutting-edge art space provides a fitting introduction to El Raval’s new identity. Head south along C/Montalegre to the Plaça dels Àngels. Sip a coffee beneath the Gothic arches of the restored Convent dels Àngels, which houses the café-restaurant and art and design exhibition rooms of Foment de les Arts Decoratives. See Centre de Cultura Contemporània & Foment de les Arts Decoratives. Round off your art amble with a trip down nearby C/Doctor Dou, which is speckled with commercial art galleries. If you’re looking for contemporary art to jazz up your home, pop in to Alter Ego or Cotthem Gallery (Galleries & Design Shops).
Afternoon
From here, it’s a short saunter to Mercat de La Boqueria (La Rambla). Walk along C/Carme, turn left onto C/Jerusalem, and go into the back entrance of this cavernous market. Make a beeline for El Quim de La Boqueria (stall 584–585) where you can pull up a stool and dig into fresh fare from baby prawns drizzled in olive oil and garlic to steamed mussels. After, head to the medieval gardens of the Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu, off C/Hospital, and take in the Gothic ambience of pillared arcades and courtyards. Then, get to Marsella (Bars & Clubs), and kick-start the evening with an absinthe before making for London Bar (Bars & Clubs), where live music awaits.
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A rich reminder of the neighbour-hoods’ medieval past is this Gothic hospital complex (1401), which is today home to educational and cultural organizations. Within, you can wander a pleasant garden surrounded by Gothic pillars.
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“Be original, buy original” is the motto at this jam-packed, friendly, little shop. Poke through racks of retro-wear and T-shirts printed with Mexican religious icons, Indian motifs or Mao’s face.
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Iconic Barcelona jeweller since 1839 with an international reputation. Each piece is handmade using traditional methods.
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The Modernista doors swing open to a young, friendly crowd at Barcelona’s oldest watering hole. Founded in 1860, the bar has many original fittings, plus eclectic music and strong cocktails.
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This trendy spot serves up organic goodies, from yogurt shakes to vegetarian burritos.
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Presided over by a huge, papier-mâché flamenco dancer, this bar has catered to the film and theatre crowd for years. Rustic pizzas and salads are served until 2am.
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The first thing locals will say when you ask about the Barri Xinès is that it no longer exists; the second is that the name has no real connection with the Chinese (Xinès ). Both statements are true. This barrio, unfolding south from Carrer Sant Pau towards Drassanes, was once one of Europe’s most infamous neighbourhoods, inhabited by the poor and working-class and rife with prostitutes, pimps, strippers and drug dealers. Today, due to enthusiastic clean-up efforts, mere vestiges remain of the barrio’s previous life (though some alleys still hint at illicit activity). As for the name, the area has nothing to do with the Chinese, but was named in the barrio’s early-1900s heyday as a general reference to its large immigrant population. Today you can browse in cheap thrift shops and small grocery stores by day and bar-hop your way through the area by night.
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This smooth little cocktail bar, founded in 1933, continues to mix the meanest martinis in town for an elbow-to-elbow crowd.
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Barcelona’s cabaret tradition lives on at this theatre-bar, with its flamboyant shows and espectacles of mime, magic and flamenco.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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