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British Airways, Iberia and easyJet offer direct flights from the UK to Barcelona. From the US, Delta fly direct from the east coast, but flights from the west coast usually involve one stopover. Qantas flies from Australia and New Zealand to Barcelona via a series of stopovers.

Prat de Llobregat airport’s two adjoining terminals are 12 km (7 miles) south of the city centre.

One of the most convenient ways from the airport to the city centre is by Aerobús, which depart every 12 minutes and make various stops, terminating at Plaça de Catalunya. RENFE trains leave the airport every 30 minutes, stopping at Estació de Sants, Plaça de Catalunya, Arc de Triomf and El Clot-Aragó, which all link up with the metro. A taxi from the airport into the city centre costs €18 to €20.

Trains run throughout Spain and the rest of Europe from Estació de Sants and Estació de França. Both stations have lockers, ATMs and bureaux de change. RENFE is Spain’s national train company.

Eurolines serves Barcelona from numerous European cities, including Rome, Paris, London and Prague. Linebús connects with London and Milan, among other European destinations. Buses usually operate from Barcelona’s main bus station, Estació del Nord, and also from Estació de Sants.

Barcelona is well linked to the rest of Europe and Spain by a number of autopistes (toll highways) and toll-free roads. The tolled AP7 runs between Barcelona and the border of France.

The city is amply connected to the rest of Spain by train, bus and plane. Iberia flies to and from many domestic destinations and offers a shuttle service between Madrid and Barcelona with up to 30 flights a day. Spanair and Air Europa serve Barcelona from the rest of Spain. RENFE and several bus companies link Barcelona to most of Spain’s major cities.

Book long before your departure date to cut costs. If you’re flexible and open to stopovers, you’re likely to find better deals. The internet is great for cheap fares (try www.travelocity.com or www.cheaptickets.com). Many airlines offer special discounts if you purchase online.

Citizens from the US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, Australia and New Zealand need a valid passport. For non-EU citizens, a visa is required if you intend to stay in Spain for longer than three months. If you’re taking any kind of medication, bring your prescription.

Barcelona’s five-line metro system is convenient, fast, easy to use and extensive. The metro stays open until 2am at weekends.

Metro mural

The FGC (Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya) is the city’s commuter rail system, serving northern and eastern Barcelona. The FGC shares several key stations with the metro, including Plaça de Catalunya and Plaça d’Espanya, and has the same prices and similar hours.

Barcelona’s bus system covers the entire city. Bus stops are clearly marked and buses have their destinations on the front. For information on routes and schedules call 010 or pick up a bus guide from tourist offices.

There are about 15 Nitbús (nightbus) routes across the city, many of which pass through Plaça de Catalunya.

PassesA single fare on the metro, FGC, bus or nightbus costs €1.15. The T-10 personal ticket costs €6.5 and permits 10 journeys on metro, FGC and bus, providing the total jour-ney is completed within 1 hour 15 minutes. Also available are two-, three-, four- and five-day passes, which provide unlimeted travel on public transport. Tickets are available from attendants and machines at all metro stations.

Hail a yellow-and-black taxi on any major street in town; a green light on the roof indicates that one is free. For two or more passengers, taxis are almost as cheap as the metro for short hops. A minimum fare applies.

Barcelona is extremely compact and most areas are best negotiated on foot, especially the old town and Gràcia, where a leisurely stroll is the only way to soak up the architectural and cutural riches. Barcelona’s waterfront, from the Port Vell to the Port Olímpic, is also made for walking.Walks & Bike Rides .

Pedalling around the port, Barri Gòtic or Parc de la Ciutadella is a refreshing alternative to walking. There are over 70 km (43 miles) of bike lanes throughout the city, outlined on maps available from the tourist office and bike rental shops. Bikes are available to rent daily, between June and September, from Ciclobus. (See Walks & Bike Rides).

The airport bus is accessible to wheelchair users, as is Line 2 of the metro, some city buses, a few FGC stations and all nightbuses. Taxi Amic has cars and vans dedicated to wheelchair users – give advance notice. For general information on transport for the disabled, call Informació Transport Adaptat. For information on specific routes, call 010 or TMB, Barcelona’s bus and metro system.

RENFE operates lines out of Barcelona in all directions, making it easy to escape the city. Most regional trains leave from Estació de Sants Tips on Getting To Barcelona and Estació Passeig de Gràcia. Call the RENFE information line for destinations and schedules.

Numerous regional bus companies operate all over Catalonia. Most depart from Estació del Nord – call the station for more information.

A car is essential if you wish to explore off the beaten track, particularly in the Pyrenees and the Catalonian heartland. There are many car rental companies, including all the big names (Avis, Budget, Hertz), all of which have offices at the airport. Prices range from €240–420 for a mediumsized car for a week. To rent a car, you should be over 25, and have a valid driver’s licence, a credit card and a passport. Booking your rental car from abroad or on-line is often cheaper.

Mountain bikers will find a wealth of rugged terrain in the Pyrenees. The Turisme de Catalunya has maps and brochures as well as a good website showing bike routes throughout Catalonia. Club Element leads mountain bike tours through the lush Cerdanya Valley and along the Costa Brava.

“Sightsea” off the Costa Brava aboard glass-bottomed boats and other sea cruisers. L’Aventura del Nautilus conducts coastal sea cruises from L’Estartit to the Medes Islands off the Costa Brava. Excursiones Marítimas plies the Mediterranean from Calella and Blanes to Tossa de Mar, stopping at lovely coves along the way.

Discover Catalonia on organized bus tours, which include trips to the Monestir de Montserrat, Girona, the Teatre-Museu Dalí in Figueres and the Costa Brava. Also offered is a one-day tour that visits Montserrat and Barcelona’s Modernista marvels. Bus tours are organized by Julià and Pullmantur.

The new numbers for many roads in Catalonia that were issued in 2001 are now all that appear on signs. The old names have been phased out.

The best time to get out of town is in the late morning. Avoid long holiday weekends (pont ) and Friday evenings, when traffic is always heavy. Since most Spanish take their holidays in August, motorways are particularly busy around this period.

RENFE offers a 40 per cent discount for children aged four to 11. Enquire when booking tickets.

The open-topped Bus Turístic is a grand way to experience the city’s sights and sounds. The red route explores northern Barcelona; the blue route takes in the southern area. You can hop on and off as many times as you like. Discounts to sights and shops are included.

The tourist office (Sources of Information) organizes reasonably-priced guided walks from the main office in Plaça de Catalunya – they explore the Roman and medieval history of the Barri Gòtic. The Travel Bar (Sources of Information) also conducts lively walking tours.

Guided tours in English of the facades of the Mansana de la Discòrdia. Tickets offer a map and 50 per cent discount on some admission fees. For tickets, tours and information, visit the Centre del Modernisme at the Tourist Information Office in Plaça Catalunya.

See the city from the sea on one of Les Golondrines’ sightseeing boats. Trips lasting 35 minutes depart every half-hour; longer tours are available on a catamaran with an underwater view. The Voyages Orsom sailing catamaran departs from Portal de la Pau for a leisurely glide through the port.

Cable cars (telefèric) depart from Montjuïc (Miramar station), Torre de Jaume I and Torre de Sant Sebastià, yielding stunning views of the city.

Kayak under the stars off Barcelona’s shores on a summer’s night – with a beer and pica pica (snack) en route. Nàutica Base arranges various outdoor water activities and provides all the necessary equipment and insurance. After kayaking, go back to base for a barbecue, cocktails and ambient, DJ-spun music.

See Barcelona’s major sights and neighbourhoods on a guided coach tour organized by Julià or Pullmantur Tours. Also offered are night-time tours (Thu–Sat), with a stop for tapas followed by a flamenco or other music show. Live Barcelona organizes group guided tours in a Mercedes van (for up to seven people).

Whiz about the old town and the Parc de la Ciutadella on group bike tours organized by bike rental shop Un Cotxe Menys (“One Car Less”). Lifestyle Barcelona also runs bike tours.

It may be a tourist trap, but riding up La Rambla on a horse and carriage can raise a smile, especially for kids.

Multilingual staff give out free maps and information at Barcelona’s main tourist office on Plaça de Catalunya. They also have a hotel booking service, a bureau de change, internet access and a souvenir shop. Other offices are located in Estació de Sants and on Plaça de Sant Jaume. For information on the rest of Catalonia, visit the Turisme de Catalunya Ways to Explore Catalonia. For information over the phone on everything from museum opening hours to bus routes, call 010 or the Turisme de Barcelona’s information line.

In summer red-jacketed tourist information officers roam the city’s busiest areas giving out maps and advice; and there is also an information point in Las Ramblas.

The indispensable weekly Guía del Ocio covers the city’s nightlife (music, theatre, dance and film). It has extensive listings of restaurants and nightlife and is available from all newsstands. Barcelona Metropolitan (free) is the city’s leading English-language monthly magazine, featuring culture, the arts and restaurant and nightlife listings. Broadsheet is another English-language monthly. b-guided gives the latest on trendy places to shop, eat and drink – in English and Spanish.

Various nations have consulates in Barcelona.

Get the lowdown on cultural and arts events among others, from the Institut de Cultura in the Palau de la Virreina (Palau de la Virreina).

Numerous websites cover Barcelona, including the official tourist office site (www.barcelonaturisme.com). The in-depth www.bcn.es is another excellent source. The website of Turisme de Catalunya (www.gencat.es/probert) has extensive coverage of Catalonia.

This friendly bar, with internet access and amiable staff, is a good source of information. The bar hosts guided walking (Tours & Trips) and bike tours, “intercambio” nights to practise your Spanish, and a popular bar crawl to the best bars of the old town.

If you’re after cheap, short-term accommodation or if you’re looking to practise your Spanish, peruse the university notice boards posted around the building’s cloisters.

The city’s main library is the Biblioteca de Catalunya; bring your passport to apply for a one-day pass. The Institut Britànic houses a library of English books and newspapers.

There are public phones (cabines ) throughout the city. Use coins or a phonecard.

Purchase a phonecard from a newsstand, phone centre or tobacco shop (estanc ). The Telefónica phonecard comes in denominations of €6 and €12. Other phonecards (BT, Fortune) for international calls are also available and tend to offer cheaper calls.

To make an international call, dial 00 followed by the country code (UK: 44; US/Canada: 1; Australia: 61; New Zealand: 64), the area code and the phone number. To call Spain from abroad, dial the international access code then 34 for Spain plus the full phone number. To make a collect call, or to pay by credit card or your calling card, dial the international operator (9009900) plus the country code. For operator assistance in making international calls from Spain, dial 1008 for EU countries and 1005 for all others. For international information and directory enquiries, dial 11825.

The cost of a local call from a phone booth to a land line is generally about 20 cents. Barcelona phone numbers all begin with the code 93; the rest of Catalonia is divided up into the provinces of Lleida (973), Girona (972) and Tarragona (977). For operator assistance, dial 11818.

Phone centres (locutoris ) provide a more comfortable – and usually cheaper – alternative to public pay phones. Phones are hooked up to a digital display showing the cost, which is paid at the end. Note that the more central the location, the more expensive the call. Prices do not vary dramatically, but Telecomunicaciones del Caribe offers some of the best prices in the city centre.

Post offices (correus ) are usually open 8:30am–8pm Mon–Fri and 10am–1pm Sat, though hours may vary slightly. Barcelona’s main post office is open longer hours. It also offers a range of services, including fax and express mail services (urgente ). The city’s mailboxes are bright yellow, generally with one slot for ciutat (city) and one for altres destinacions (other destinations).

You can receive mail at any post office, but it’s safest to have it sent to the main one. Bring your passport (or a copy of it) to collect mail.

Internet centres are dotted all over Barcelona, many around Plaça de Catalunya and La Rambla. Most are open until 11pm, sometimes midnight. For 24-hour access, head to easyEverything; for cool ambient music, try Cybermundo; and for good deals, opt for Conectate Zona: Aragón 283 93 467 04 43

Courier services will pick up a package and deliver it anywhere in the world, usually within 1–5 days.

The national emergency number is 112, through which you can contact the policia (police), bombers (firemen) and ambulància (ambulance).

Dial 091 to call the national police (Policia Nacional), and 092 for the local police (Guàrdia Urbana). The Turisme Atenció centre, run by the Guàrdia Urbana and Turisme de Barcelona, provides advice and help to visitors who have been victims of crime.

Although petty crime is rife, more serious incidences of violence are rare. Thieves occasionally carry knives – if threatened, hand over your belongings immediately.

Leave all your valuables, including your passport, behind in a hotel safety deposit box. Take as little cash as possible and carry what you do have in a money belt hidden under clothes. Carry wallets in front pockets and ensure bags are strapped across your front. On the beach and in cafés and restaurants, always keep your belongings on your lap or tied to your person. Also be cautious of any odd or unnecessary human contact, verbal or physical, whether it’s a tap on the shoulder or someone spilling their drink at your table. Thieves often work in twos, so while one is catching your attention, the other is swiping your wallet.

Hospital de la Creu Roja de Barcelona, Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau (Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau) and Hospital Clinic all have 24-hour emergency rooms (called urgències ). For an ambulance, dial 061.

The tourist office can provide information on English-speaking doctors. There are numerous walk-in clinics in the city, including the Creu Blanca near Plaça de Catalunya, where there is no need to make an appointment.

EU citizens can receive free medical care with a European health insurance card, which must be obtained before travelling. Non-EU citizens are strongly advised to take out medical cover.

Dental care is not covered by the EU health service. There are numerous dental clinics in Barcelona where you can walk in and get a consultation, including the Clínica Dental Barcelona, where dentists are generally on duty 9am–midnight weekdays.

Pharmacies (farmàcies ) are marked by a large green cross, usually in neon. All chemists have trained pharmacists who can offer advice (places on and around La Rambla usually have a pharmacist who speaks English). Regular hours are generally 9am–2pm and 4:30pm–8pm. One pharmacy per neighbourhood is open all night from 9pm until 9am on a rotating basis, (information is listed on the front door of each pharmacy). A number of places, particularly on La Rambla, are open 24 hours a day.

Since 1 January 2002, the official currency of Spain, and much of Europe, has been the Euro. For general information on the Euro check the European Union website.

Banks are generally open 8am–2pm on week-days. Some are open 4–8pm on Thursdays and 8am–2pm on Saturdays, except from July to September. Banks tend to offer better exchange and commission rates than bureaux de change, although rates do vary from bank to bank. There’s a Caixa de Catalunya exchange in Plaça de Catalunya, next to the tourist office, which stays open until 9pm. Numerous small bank branches exchange money in Estació de Sants train station and the airport; these are open from 7 or 8am to 10pm daily.

Avoid changing money at bureaux de change in tourist areas as commission rates tend to be high or exchange rates poor. On the whole, banks offer better deals, but bureaux de change have the advantage of longer opening hours. Some, particularly those on La Rambla, are open until midnight.

ATMs (cash machines) provide the easiest way to access money and are a good way to beat commission charges. Surcharges depend on your bank. Relying on ATMs also means that you can take out money in smaller denominations and avoid carrying large amounts of cash. Before travelling, check with your bank that your PIN number works with foreign ATMs. Nearly all take VISA or MasterCard (Access) cards.

Buy traveller’s cheques in Euros. All banks cash traveller’s cheques, as do larger stores. Always carry the cheque numbers separately from the cheques. American Express traveller’s cheques can be cashed free of charge at the American Express office and at any Banco Central Hispano; a passport is required.

Visa and MasterCard are readily accepted in all but budget hotels, restaurants and shops. American Express can generally be used in hotels, but less often in restaurants and shops. Diner’s Card is accepted in about 50 per cent of restaurants. Credit card cash advances are available from any bank (or ATM if you have a PIN number). Note that the transaction fee for cash advances on credit cards can be high.

If your credit card is lost or stolen, call the police and your credit card company. Most credit cards have a number to call collect from abroad, which is provided at the time of issue.

The quickest and cheapest way to keep track of your bank account and credit card bills is by checking them online. It’s best to set up your online account before travelling.

It is advisable to carry some emergency cash hidden inside your luggage, separate from your wallet.

The Spanish eat much later than much of Europe; lunch starts around 2 or 3pm, with dinner any time after 9pm. Restaurants are usually open 1:30–4pm and 8:30–midnight. Many are closed one day of the week and during the month of August. Cafés and bars are open from around 7:30am, closing around 2am . It is difficult to get a drink or bite to eat after 4am.

Multilingual menus are increasingly the norm. Many restaurants offer their best deal for lunch, so do as the Spaniards do and fill up from the menú del dia between 1:30 and 4pm. The fixed-price menu of the day usually includes three courses, wine and water.

Catalan cuisine is characterized by the meeting of mar i muntanya (surf and turf), and signature dishes include llagosta i pollastre (lobster and chicken). Side dish mainstays are samfaina (aubergine/ eggplant, grilled peppers, tomatoes and onion in olive oil and garlic) and escalivada (sweet peppers, onion and garlic). Other Catalan favourites are botifarra amb mongetes (Catalan sausage with white beans) and pa amb tomàquet (bread smeared with tomato and drizzled with olive oil). If innards are your thing, ask for call (tripe). For dessert, enjoy crema catalana , a custard topped with caramelized sugar.

For prime seafood, head for the sea. Along Passeig Joan de Borbó in Barceloneta is a string of restaurants, many specializing in seafood and paellas. Seafood restaurants also abound in the Port Olímpic, where you can feast on fresh-off-the-boat fish and seafood on open-air terraces. Fresh seafood is served year-round, but the traditional day for paella is Thursday.

Barcelona has a handful of vegetarian eateries. Carrer Pintor Fortuny, in El Raval, has a couple of options, including Biocenter (at number 25), with its all-you-can-eat salad bar. Vegetarians can also feast almost anywhere on an array of tapas, including patates braves (spicy potatoes) and truita de patates (potato omelette). If you eat fish, then you’ll be spoiled for choice.

From the end of the year until mid-Spring, try the Catalan speciality of calçots , sweet grilled scallions usually in a romesco sauce (spicy tomato sauce). Another autumn favourite are bolets (mushrooms), usually lightly grilled and served with a sprinkling of olive oil.

Some restrictions for smoking in bars or restaurants apply from January 2006. Dress codes rarely apply.

Tipping is not expected in most establishments, so it’s up to your own preference and how you rate the service. If leaving a tip, five per cent is usually acceptable. In upscale restaurants, however, a tip of 10 per cent is the norm. Catalans occasionally tip at the bar, perhaps leaving the small change from their drinks bill.

The Spanish are very relaxed about bringing children to restaurants and bars. Kids’ menus are rare, though restaurants are often willing to serve half portions on request.

Most stores are open 10am to 2pm and 4:30pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday. Department stores and other large shops don’t close at lunch time.

Barcelona’s big sales (rebaixes ) come twice a year, from 1 July to the end of August and from 7 January until the end of February.

Non-EU citizens can claim an IVA (VAT) refund on most purchases over €90 when they leave Spain. Shops displaying the tax-free logo will provide a tax-refundable receipt, which you present before checking-in on departure. IVA (VAT) of 16 per cent (7 per cent on food) is included in the advertised price. IVA for hotels is 7 per cent, which is not always included in the price.

Leather items are a good buy in Spain and are of high quality. There are good shoe stores on Carrer Portal de l’Àngel, Carrer Pelai, Rambla de Catalunya and Passeig de Gràcia. Loewe and Kastoria sell quality leather goods.

Antiques aficionados will be richly rewarded with a stroll along Carrer Banys Nous and Carrer de la Palla in the Barri Gòtic. For more antique finds, head to the Bulevard dels Antiquaris (Best Shopping Areas) on Passeig de Gràcia, home to over 60 antiques and arts shops. The antique markets, including the Mercat dels Antiquaris (Mercat dels Antiquaris) and the Port Vell antique market, at weekends (10am–8pm), are also worth a browse.

High-end clothing stores dot Passeig de Gràcia and Avinguda Diagonal. For trendier gear, head to Carrer Portaferrissa and Carrer Pelai. Spain’s success story is the wildly popular men’s and women’s contemporary clothing chain Zara, which is all over town (and all over Europe). Another universal favourite is Mango, targeted towards younger women, which also has branches all over the city. If you’re looking to buy local, there are a number of top-end Catalan designers, including Antonio Miró.

Clothing sizes tend to be small in Spain. Size conversions for women’s clothing are: US/UK 6/8 is 36; 8/10 is 38; 10/12 is 40; 12/14 is 42; 14/16 is 44. For men’s clothing, the conversions are: US & UK 36 is 46; 38 is 48; 40 is 50; 42 is 52.

FNAC has a vast music selection, as does the department store El Corte Inglés. Equally popular among locals are the small eclectic music shops along Carrer Tallers (Carrer Tallers & Riera Baixa). Also worth a look are the CD and vinyl music shops on nearby Carrer Riera Baixa (Carrer Tallers & Riera Baixa).

Vip’s is an all-purpose drugstore-bookstore-café, where you can buy books, gifts, beer, wine and snacks. Open Cor sells everything from fresh flowers to wrapping paper, beer and wine.

The Barcelona Card offers up to 50 per cent off the city’s main attractions, plus free travel on buses and the metro. It’s available for one to five days at all tourist offices and El Corte Inglés department stores. The Articket, valid for three months, provides free entry to six art museums, including MNAC (Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya), MACBA (Museu d'Art Contemporani & Centre de Cultura Contemporània) and the Fundació Joan Miró (Fundació Joan Miró). The tourist office on Plaça de Catalunya see Sources of Information sells it, as do Caixa de Catalunya banks and the museums themselves.

Many museums offer free entry on the first Sunday of the month, including the Museu Picasso (Museu Picasso). MNAC (Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya) is free the first Thursday of the month. The tourist office has a list of all the free museum days. Most museums also offer a 30–50 per cent discount for people over 65.

The T-10 ticket permits 10 rides on metro, FGC and buses, but only lasts for 1 hour 15 minutes. Alternatively, you can purchase a two-, three-, four- or five-day pass, which provides unlimited travel on the same services. See Tips on Getting Around Barcelona.

Enjoy rock-bottom prices for concerts and the opera (Sep–Jul) by buying seats with partial views – or no view at all. The Gran Teatre del Liceu (Performing Arts & Music Venues) sells cheap tickets for opera and classical recitals. The Palau de la Música Catalana Palau de la Música Catalana has reduced price early-evening weekend shows twice a month. For general information on cultural events – and special deals – call or visit the Institut de Cultura in the Palau de la Virreina (Palau de la Virreina).

The most economical way to get a bite to eat is to pick up picnic goodies at one of the city’s food markets see Most Fascinating Markets. The menú del dia (fixed lunch menu) offered at many restaurants is another good way to fill up on the cheap. Dining on the terrace is often more pricey than eating inside, where sitting at the bar is usually the cheapest option.

Bypass McDonald’s and Burger King and sample Spain’s cheaper fast food equivalents. Pans & Company and Bocatta are found all over town; both offer cheap meals, particularly if you eat between 10am and noon, and 4 and 7pm.

Start out the night in your hotel with a bottle of Spanish wine from the supermarket. Then head to the Barri Gòtic or El Raval where there are plenty of cheap dive bars. Order a canya (tap beer) or a Spanish bottled beer, Estrella or San Miguel, which are usually cheaper than imported beers.

Visit Barcelona during the low season, from October to April, and you’ll find cheaper hotel deals (and air fares). Enquire about special deals when booking a room – many places don’t volunteer information oj reductions unless specifically asked.

You don’t have to stay at the ritzy hotels to enjoy their luxurious environs. Most of the bars and cafés at the five-star hotels are open to the general public. Try the Hotel Arts (Luxury Hotels), near the Port Olímpic, where you can sip a cocktail to the rippling tunes of classical piano.

Beware of under-populated alleys and streets in the old town after dark, particularly in the Barri Gòtic and El Raval. These attract thieves who tend to operate in groups. Prime pickpocketing times are between 9pm and midnight, when most locals are eating dinner and only visitors are out on the streets. The early hours (3–6am), after the bars and clubs close, are also popular with thieves.

Avoid the pricey leather shops clustered on and around La Rambla. The leather is often poor quality and prices are high. Stop off at the tourist office for a list of approved leather shops, or head for established stores (Best Shopping Areas).

Don’t get sidetracked by the raucous “find the hidden ball” games on La Rambla. Usually played on makeshift tables, presided over by a skilled, nimble-fingered trickster, it appears at first glance to be a lively game of chance. In reality, it’s a confidence trick. The lively folk who cheer you on are all accomplices who are in on the act. Though you may win the first few rounds, you’ll soon start to lose, and you’ll walk away with a much lighter wallet. Also to be avoided are the gypsies who try to sell you flowers and often pick your pocket at the same time!

Rip-off, touristy terrace restaurants line La Rambla. Most of these paella and tapas eateries cater solely to tourists, charging sky-high prices for mediocre meals. The side streets off La Rambla offer better food at more reasonable prices.

Miss the crowds and interminably long queues at the city’s most popular sights by visiting first thing in the morning when the sights open or towards the end of the day, an hour or two before closing time. To avoid the hordes on the beaches in summer go on weekday afternoons.

Steer clear of the bureaux de change on La Rambla, Plaça de Catalunya and near major tourist sights. They usually charge much higher commission than banks. If they advertise no commission, exchange rates are generally poor.

Avoid attracting attention to yourself as a tourist. Keep cameras hidden, try not to display large banknotes and don’t wear valuable jewellery. When consulting a guidebook or map, keep a vigilant eye on your belongings.

Avoid city traffic congestion by driving around late morning (10am–1pm) or late afternoon (5–7pm). Most office workers have a lunch break between 2pm and 4pm, which means that the roads are packed during this period. Similarly, avoid leaving town on Friday evenings, particularly during the summer. The best time to head out of the city is mid- to late-morning after 10am.

During the month of August, many Barcelona establishments shut down altogether, the locals disappear on holiday and the city fills with visitors. With so many restaurants, bars, shops and even some sights closed, not to mention the distinct lack of local life, August in Barcelona has its drawbacks. Always call first to check on opening times during this period.

If visiting Barcelona in the high season (Mar–Sep), book ahead as the city’s hotels, pensions and hostals (smaller, more basic guesthouses rated at one to three stars) usually fill to capacity. When reserving a room, ask about special deals as many hotels have these, especially in the low season (Oct–Mar).

There are scores of cheap pensions and hostals on La Rambla and its sidestreets in the Barri Gòtic and El Raval. Plaça Reial also has a cluster of budget accommodation options.

Room size (and comfort level) in pensions and hostals varies widely, but in the accredited budget places (the tourist office has a list of these), you’ll find clean rooms and good security. Rooms come either amb bany (with a bath) or sense bany (without a bath); most have a washbasin.

Hotels and hostals give the best rooms to those who ask for them – so always inquire. Most hostals , particularly in the old town, have some rooms with lovely wrought-iron balconies, which can make all the difference to a small room. Ask for una habitació exterior amb vistes (a room with a view) or amb balcó (with balcony). If you’re a light sleeper, opt for a una habitació interior (interior room).

Single rooms at hostals and pensions are few and far between, but hotels are legally obliged to let double rooms to single occupants at a fixed price. All rates must be posted at reception or in the rooms.

Many hotels offer discounts for children under 12 when they share their parents’ room on a temporary bed.

If you’re going to be staying at youth hostels and campsites, carry a chain and padlock to tie your luggage to something sturdy. Always leave your valuables in a safe or locked box, which most places have.

The tourist office (Ways to Explore Catalonia) in Plaça de Catalunya has a hotel booking service, which is useful if you arrive in high season without a reservation. It offers bookings in hotels of all categories, but most often in three-star hotels and above. A deposit is payable on reservation. The tourist office also produces a list of the best pensions and hostals for budget travellers. On the web, try www.barcelonahotels.es and www.barcelona turisme.com.

Discover rural Catalonia by staying at Cases de Pagès (country or farm houses), which offer B&B-style lodgings. They vary widely, from small, rural homes with a handful of rooms to luxurious, palace-sized farmhouses. The high-end Cases de Pagès are called Gîtes. Stop by the Turisme de Catalunya office (Ways to Explore Catalonia) for a free list of the Gîtes de Catalunya and (to buy) the Cases de Pagès book, which has detailed listings and pictures of all such houses. This information is also accessible through its website (www.gencat.es/probert).