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A portside warren of narrow streets, small squares and ancient bars, this traditional neighbourhood of pescadors (fishermen) and mariners (sailors) seems worlds apart from the megamalls and disco lights of nearby Port Olímpic. A refreshing foray through this tight-knit community yields a glimpse into the way Barcelona was 150 years ago. Older couples still pull chiars out onto the street to gossip and watch the world go by, and small seafood restaurants serve a menú del dia of whatever’s fresh off the boat. Running the length of Barceloneta’s western edge is Passeig Joan de Borbó, which is lined with restaurants serving mariscs (shellfish) and paellas.

Housed in a medieval palace complex, this museum charts Picasso’s rise to fame with an extensive collection of his early works, including numerous masterful portraits painted at the age of 13. See Museu Picasso.

Unmistakably Gaudí, this Modernista marvel seems to grow from the very pavement itself. Fluid and eerily alive, its curving façade sprouts writhing wrought-iron balconies. A cluster of mosaic chimneys keeps watch over the rooftop like shrewd-eyed knights (La Pedrera).

A verdant oasis in the city centre, Barcelona’s largest park is criss-crossed with pleasant paths. It boasts a zoo, two museums, and a lavish Modernista fountain. See Parc de la Ciutadella.

Dominating the heart of the old town is this magnificent Gothic Cathedral, with a soaring, elaborate façade and a graceful, sun-dappled cloister containing palm trees and white geese. See Barcelona Cathedral.

The enduring symbol of the city and its Modernista legacy is this church, Gaudí’s other-worldly pièce de résistance. Piercing the Barcelona skyline are eight of the twelve planned spires that have so far been built. See Sagrada Família.

Barcelona’s centrepiece, this 1-km (0.6-mile) long, thriving pedestrian thoroughfare cuts a wide swathe through the old town, from Plaça de Catalunya to the glistening Mediterranean. See La Rambla.

Barcelona was catapulted onto the world stage in 1992 with the highly successful Olympics. Today, the city remains socialist in politics and ready to perceive itself as both Spanish and Catalan.

Booming industry and trade with the Americas brought activity to the city. Immigrants poured in from the countryside, laying the foundations of prosperity but also the seeds of unrest. The old city walls came down, broad Eixample avenues were laid out and workers crowded the old city neighbourhoods left behind by the middle classes.

Franco’s death in 1975 paved the way for democracy. The Catalan language was rehabilitated and, following the introduction of a new democratic constitution in Spain, Catalonia was granted regional autonomy. The first Catalan government was elected in 1980.

At the outbreak of war in 1936, Barcelona’s workers and militants managed to fend off Franco’s troops for a while. The city was taken by Fascist forces in 1939, prompting a wave of repression, particularly of the Catalan language which was banned in schools.

But discontent brewed among workers, Catalan nationalists, communists, Spanish fascists, royalists, anarchists and republicans. In 1909, protests against the Moroccan war sparked a brutal riot, the Setmana Tràgica (Tragic Week). Lurching towards Civil War, Catalonia passed under a dictatorship before being declared a Republic in 1931.

This new wealth, showcased in the International Exhibitions of 1888 and 1929, sparked a Catalan renaissance. Modernista mansions sprouted up, and the nationalist bourgeoisie sparked a revival of Catalan culture, particularly of literature, theatre and art.

In reaction to the oppressive policies set out in Madrid, now ruled by the Austrian Habsburgs, various local factions, known as Els Segadors , revolted. Fighting began in 1640 and dragged on until 1652, when the Catalans and their French allies were defeated.

During this period, Barcelona was the capital of a Catalan empire that included much of modern Spain and parts of the Mediterranean. The city’s fortune was built on commerce, but as neighbouring Castile expanded into the New World, trading patterns shifted and the Catalan dynasty faltered. Barcelona fell into decline and came under Castilian domination.

As the Roman Empire began to fall apart in the 5th century, the Visigoths took over the city, followed by the Moors in the 8th century. Around AD 800, Charlemagne conquered the area with the help of the Pyrenean counts.

A rich reminder of the neighbour-hoods’ medieval past is this Gothic hospital complex (1401), which is today home to educational and cultural organizations. Within, you can wander a pleasant garden surrounded by Gothic pillars.

A balloon journey over the volcanic area of Osona is an unbeatable way to get a bird’s-eye view of Catalonia.